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I had a similar problem with a different vehicle. I simply took off the line again, put on some thread locking compound after a SERIOUS cleaning with brake parts cleaner and drying and then everything went back together. I've also noticed a few vehicles that needed the lines replaced because...
RE: post turbo
Oh - and the big turbo thing - I had someone ask me about that a while back on here:
Imagine a straw pressurized to 5psi, and a garden hose sitting next to it pumped to the same pressure. Which one will hold more air? That's the garden hose, and that is best how to imagine why...
RE: post turbo
haha :) thanks for the flames
If you're interested, I've replaced 2 racing turbos from excessive runtimes at 1200 degrees with my friend's race car, logging dozens hours over it's life. Yep "logging". I'll go dig up the charts if anyone wants to see 1200 degrees for a solid...
RE: Re: RE: I have the same problem?
anyone have a wiring diagram for the signal/brakes/flashers/switch circuits? Wallew has his right turn signals out too and the switch looked partially ok, but I'll replace it anyhow.
I did locate a short causing dim flashes on the right side when using the...
Re: RE: post turbo?
Note: guys that have put them in front on vehicles that are going to always be close to the max egt are going to eventually suck that probe into the turbo, unless you're VERY careful about the temps and ratios. That's why the after turbo is the best spot, or most popular...
RE: post turbo?
There are two locations that are most common, and three setups that can be used:
Easy: Within and not further than 2" from the exhaust housing (most common by far and only gives you about 100 degree difference on the egt)
Not so easy: on the exhaust manifold right at the...
I guess that explains why in the heck the reserve is so vast on these tanks... wasn't it like 8 gallons or more? it must have a weak or low volume discount type pump and requires a bit of gravity feed to assist.
If it saves anyone time - The base coats on the military trucks in the western states (besides OR & WA) are in pretty darn good shape. If you have one of those non-rustmasters, it saves time to sand/grind/smooth only the bad stuff and feather any chips. The new paint will go right over quite...
I'm still going to keep my word and if the engine blows on my deuce (holy cow, if anyone ever sells one around here.. haha) with this turbo, I'll buy all of you guys a beer. I'm not going nuts with it, and up here we can run at least 3-4 psi more than at sea level... Maybe it sounds like a lot...
That's cool WT.
However, it still doesn't answer what we were questioning... Can a TD head hold more pressure than a non-td?
I guess we'll need to call an engineer from the manufacturer.
I don't know - that seems to be a pretty pretentious thing to say. You're telling me that a head tightened down MORE can't hold more cylinder pressure than one that is lightly tightened down?
I’m just not sure. To me it sounds a bit incongruous. I’ll buy what Bob’s saying.
WOOOOOOOOOOOOO BOY!
That's HIGH tire wear! I had no idea that the ndcc tires are that bad. You could use some commercial off road tires! 1/32 per 10,000 miles, lol! :wink:
I agree completely with what you're saying. You've got to think that 50K miles isn;t good when it's a diesel, HOWEVER, think of how we drove them in the service (read: beat the living shit out of them). That MIGHT be a testament to how good they are or are not. You decide.
Either way, I think...
We've found guys here that own chow-halls and they will GIVE us the oil because normally they pay to have it hauled off. From my little test, it can be used during the summer with little additives at all. If you're in socal, you may be able to get away with it year round on a 30-50% diesel mix.