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Thanks for the replies, I figured the cover may be difficult to alter but thought I would check. I am not in a rush so I will keep looking.

Regarding the cover and frame, is it possible to shorten the cover for a FMTV to fit an LMTV? What are the covers made from? Are the end panels attached by adhesive or ultrasonic welding or are they sewn? I am assuming the support frame could be shortened easily. I am asking since I have seen...

Welcome, what part of Columbus are you from? I am just outside of Plain City and also have a M923A2.

Hello from Columbus.

How far apart did you take the solenoid? The black plastic body which houses the coil can be seperated from the brass piece and the valve core and spring can be removed and cleaned. I had the same symptom as you and was able to pull it apart and clean up the valve core, now everything is working...

I am lookng forward to the more experienced replies. From my limited experience with my 94 M1078, my truck originally had the bead locks in the bottom most picture. The MRAP replacement tires and rims I purchased had the run flats pictured in the upper right of your post. I went ahead and left...

I agree, when you get the new fan tomorrow could you post if the hub material is steel or aluminum. If it changed to steel it seems like it should be much better.

1/16 should be good I need to add a spacer to mine since I have contact. I am thing to use 0.1 inch aluminum sheet i have for the spacer. Now i just need to decide if I should upgrade the fan and clutch for peace of mind whiles its apart.

Mkcoen, the clearance between the clutch bolt heads and the AC pulley will get smaller when you apply air pressure to the clutch. When air is applied the portion of the clutch the fan is bolted to moves backward so there is clearance to the clutch facing and the clutch disengages. You may want...

Wow, who do you have insurance through? I thought they would cap the towing at a $ limit like $250. I need to shop around at rewenal timing. Glad you are getting it back together so quickly. Did you get the thickness spec for the spacer yet? If not what is your plan? I was thinking of...

The 90 degree fitting is still available from Dana however I just tried to purchase 2 and there is a 3 month lead time so i am also in the need for 2 of the normal ones that were on the rear.

Great idea taking the radiator out the bottom, did anything else need removed to have enough clearance? I hope to never have to do it again, if I do I will try this way. Did you have any problem finding a new fan and clutch? I am now thinking to upgrade to the newer clutch with studs and fan...

Thanks for posting this info. I just checked mine and there is evidence of the clutch bolt heads rubbing the pulley when the clutch is disengaged. I couldn't find any details for the referenced spacer. I can probably fab one, if anyone has the details on the thickness that would be appreciated.

I was wondering if the new style clutch and fan had the same trouble. I have seen pictures of the clutch separating as well as the fan separating from the clutch. I was thinking the new fan without the rubber grommet may be better for the case where the fan separated from the clutch.

I had my radiator out a few months back to pull the camshaft on my truck. If you have an overhead hoist with enough height the radiator can be slid back towards the engine and pulled straight up and out with a little maneuvering. In my case my hoist wasn't high enough so alot of maneuvering...

Thanks for all the replies, I just went out and tried the screwdriver trick similar to what mkcoen described and achieved full latch. It appears that the striker portion which is on the cab is angled relative to the latch and is preventing the latch from going fully down exactly as Sapphire...

Hello, Does anyone have a picture of the cab latch in the latched condition? I am trying to determine how far the indicator pin retracts when the cab is latched. On my truck the pin only moves in 1/4 of an inch and alot of the red portion is visible. My is pictured below.

Nice, much better than how i had to lift mine off and maneuver for cutting and welding.

The labor quote seams reasonable especially since they will also be replacing the front crank seal and excluder. As others have said replace the belts they are not expensive.

One more thing the valve pictured is called a kneeling valve and is only used on the front tires. The purpose is to allow the quick release of air from the tires to reduce the front height for shipping. I think they reduce the pressure to 10 or 20 PSI. There is a slotted fitting on the top that...