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I was looking for an Airtex E1074 fuel pump for my 802a to replace the Facet 40193. Apparently they are made of un-obtanium. Can't seem to find anything on the E1074 pump -- Airtex help line wasn't too helpful on the E1074. So...... They (Airtex) suggested the E8135 pump. They "said" that...

Does anyone have a trick for removing the fan from the engine? It sounds like it should be easy, but cutting the bolt off is looking more and more like the only solution... thanks

If you take the rear generator cover off to expose the tank -- and you probably will, simply unplug the wires coming from the sensor --- it is a molex connector with four wires going in and out. Unplugging the connector simulates "tank full", and there should be no further problem. Now, you...

It is in the rotor. If one takes the front panel off of the generator head there will be a small terminal strip. This carries a signal from the regulator to a small stator which is visible (barely) with the panel off. That signal to the stator causes an AC voltage to be developed in the...

I'd start with removing the remote start unit. Now, that probably won't fix it, but it worked before the r/s unit was installed, so at least with the r/s removed you can see if that somehow causes the problem. If that doesn't stop the breaker pop I'd still leave the r/s off until the unit is...

Zakman.. Those load banks work fine, but the switching is just a little confusing. Take the 12 kw bank for example. It is 4 kw per phase, which is 1/3 of 12. The way it becomes 12 is if you consider all three phases. So, if the unit is set up to test 240 volts single phase, then...

Since you have the 60Hz signal without the fuse that means that the stator is good. Replacing a stator is not a task for the faint of heart. One practically has to dismantle the entire front of the generator just to get to the point where he can get to the stator. That is, if he can...

With the fuse removed and the generator running, does the Hz meter read ~60 Hz? I know the voltmeter won't read, but the Hz meter?? Without seeing the unit, but based on your saying that it worked before it was moved, I'd guess that the Hz meter is reading ~60 hz without that fuse in...

Well, it is always good to hear a successful story. Congratulations on your IP fix.

Here are two pictures of a brand new adjustable coupler connected to my M101a2 trailer. The third picture is a picture of what the actual adjustable unit looks like. That third (Beige) coupler is used mil surplus and I'm going to install it in an M116A3 trailer next spring. I don't know part...

Here's a thought... You can do this with an M101A2/3 trailer.... Contact the vendor who makes the surge brake. Mendenhall Industries, I think they are in Myrtle Beach. They make an adjustable coupler for those surge brakes that will replace the lunette, which means that you can bolt a...

Don't give up trying to get a pump out. Once one is out, you can manipulate the rail with a screwdriver to force the second pump loose (a little anyway). You just have to get them rotating a little. Once they start rotating the fuel pressure and vibrations will set them free. Best of luck in...

Thanks --- but.... Who is John Galt? That's the eternal question.

It is unlikely that something inside is broken. So, you can be happy about that..... But, one (or both) pump(s) is (are) stuck. If a pump is stuck, it will prevent the fuel rail from moving backwards and forwards. Each pump has a tang on it that rotates. Since the tang is inserted into a...

congrats on getting it running

I took one apart about a year ago and it isn't all that hard. The main screw in mine was bent and I straightened it out with a vise and some "selective" forming. It was actually very straightforward, and was able to turn a landing leg that wouldn't work at all to one that works pretty nicely...

I think it was working OK, but it sat for a couple of weeks with the brake on and now one side seems to drag. I towed it around the field a couple of times and the "dragging" side drum was measurably warmer than the non-dragging side. The cable seems to droop when the brake is released. So...

Since only a small percentage of the diagnostic plug pins are connected to anything, simply adding a wire loop from an unused pin to the AC interrupt switch and then connecting that pin to a push button switch at the remote site would do the trick. Somehow there would have to be a couple of...

I've taken out a 803a and an 802a tank, and I had to take out the entire rear section of sheet metal out. That would include the radiator et al. That tank had to be the very first thing installed, 'cause it certainly is the last thing out. If there is any way to fix whatever problem you have...

At least that's the decal label that I had seen. At least one of them had a warning label as well about the generator starting without warning. It would have to have wiring to enable the AC interrupt. Doing it through the diagnostic plug on the front could work... as I recall Flash, AC...