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I have always warmed every vehicle till the oil pressure drops to normal. the fast idle kicking off on my truck does not leave it warm enough . my oil pressure when warmed and running normal is around 40 psi when cold and starting its around 70 ish. if i start out right after the fast idle kicks...

as an update got the front, installed it and truck is running straight normal and a heck of alot warmer the fitment is spot on and the quality is very high. could not locate the "correct" hardware but did find suitable enough stuff to install

looks to me as if guard is using the cucv shackle bars so it may hinge down to the front thats how i would do it anyhow.

I am ordering the jatonka cucv winter front and i had a couple questions about the specifics. Does anyone here currently use the jatonka winterfront on their cucv or the military one? does it fit and work ok? any issues with it? Does anyone have pictures of the original hardware required to...

since you said all you wanted was a diffrent look than my truck, i think you nailed it 2cents and i think it looks great as it is if your worried about zombies i believe i would use a dozer not a truck:idea:

blew a brake line and spent last few hours bending and replacing line flushing and bleeding system.

i learned long ago spinning tires means junking a vehicle alot sooner my step son just found out that spinning tires in a 4x4 destroys rears trannys and transfercases. i love getting in my " sucky truck" and pulling off while his sits in the driveway lol.

i had a tap i started adding 1qt of 2stroke per tank and poof tap stopped dunno maybe try and see if it helps cheaper than new truck

just make sure whatever brand or type you get has a vent on it at the very least so you can bleed air out. i have run into this twice with the napa base where bleeding the system got to be a pain. i used a racor filter base 220r and 10 micron filter r24t with a primer and clear site bowl no...

mv = designed by the clueless for the clueless and collected by the clueless after the clueless who fixed and drove em were done with them. seems about right to me. :razz:

Well done, sir well done.

the stock one on my truck did not have an adjustment the napa one i replaced it with had a flat head screw inside the tube where the hose hooks up.

:ditto: i did the same thing and have had no issues however i do think at some point i will get it welded up permanent.

they work well with rocks too i love mine.

flip down drivers visor follow instructions on the back. if truck starts yer golden if not you have to figure out how your truck likes it. i turn key on and push glowplug button till seat belt buzzer stops then i throttle about halfway and engage starter if no start i hit the plugs for another...

looks really good i have plans to do the inside of my m1008 soon no rust in there yet so gonna keep it that way.

i installed the push button as a redundancy thing in case the card failed,of course it eventually did and in absolutely the worse circumstances so i was extremely glad i had the back up

i use napa commercial batterys biggest cca i could get, not very cheap but truck spins over fast since i put them in.

i use diesel kleen silver bottle and 1 quart omc tcw3 2 stroke oil every fill up. if i use the oil/additive truck runs quieter imho quieter means less mechanical friction so i figure thats better for truck. i have also used tranny fluid in the truck did not notice much diffrence in how it ran.

i have used a product called release to take baked on stickers off boats and it works pretty good although nothing i have ever tried took out the elbow grease component completely;)