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Well, thanks for the filter tip. But I just checked and my carb did not even have that filter in it, In fact I checked the other two parts carbs I have and they didn't either. I suppose that is why we always had that in-line filter just ahead of the carb.
I tried blowing in the line and it...
I am not sure I had that portion apart when I took the carb apart.
I am going out this very minute and check that. But we have always had an in-line filter just ahead of the carb. But who knows!? I gotta check it out.
Thanks
Waiting on the new coil, pray that's the fix. Yesterday we checked each plug wire with a meter for continuaty and any shorts to the outside braided cover. All seemed fine
Bought a can of starting fluid and while running, sprayed all intake areas, the manifold and carb base, etc. No sign of...
Yesterday I watched videos on how to check the condenser and coil with a volt meter. It is hard to check the coil to see if it is only bad when it's hot because it takes so long to take the cap off. So we ordered a new coil. The one in it checks out ok when cold.
Otherwise almost everything...
I have not noticed any black smoke, except once when he was shifting gears. (we have a standard 5 speed manual transmission in this truck)
However there is wet black soot running down the outside of the stack now that it's raining?
So how could this problem be addressed? There are only the two...
Howdy, Since I have no actual assembly dwg for that carb, perhaps you could be able to tell me?
The order of the gaskets between the top (horn?) of the carb and the main body? Mine has fiber / metal / fiber. But what keeps that botton fiber gasket from sagging down toward the float?
I believe...
Problem is with the basics of gas and spark and air. It's hard cause' it runs, it ides and runs good for 200 yards then shuts down. Maybe not completely off but sputters and runs so bad it won't pull it's own weight.
As for the gaskets being reversed, that is very possible as I have had this...
If it quits rain here I am going to run that fuel pump into a can and see if I have continious flow. Also, I had removed the actual dist cap from the metal cover and looked it over and can see no problems. I am going to assemble all that, and put in a new rotor. But after that, I am out of...
Well, I think I am licked here. I don't know what else to try? I am not going to do everything again, for the third or fourth time. And I can't keep buying parts. But thanks for caring.
Just wondering if perhaps this new fuel pump might not pump enough, however the man at NAPA tells me it is?
It is a FACET Electronic fuel pump #610-1034, The specs are 32 gal. / Hr. 4 1/2 to 9 PSI. It says 24V right on it.
The old one we took off said 7PSI.
Since the trouble still persists...
Just replaced entire fuel line from tank to and pump to carb with 5/16" new rubber line. No better.
Now have replaced float needle valve and seat because the one we were using (for last 20 yrs) did not have the little wire that pulls it open when float goes down.
We have tried everything...
We have cleaned the air filter. We have actually test driven a couple times with the filter not attached to carb. I did not actually rebuild the carb. I just partially took it apart looking for crud or obvious problems. I did not adjust the float. All had worked well for years? However...
No improvement. Starts right up, idles fine, start down road, soon as a hill or grade, starts sputtering. Sometimes even on the level?
I am out of ideas, I have done everything suggested that I am able to do, or understand.
It is just a Gas engine, I am 72 yrs old and have worked on my own...
OK, reset points, they were too wide. Changed coil, new spark plugs, new points and condenser, new fuel pump? Still no good. Starts right up and idles fine. Soon as start down road starts sputtering, especially on hills.
Was looking at an old carb I have and there is a needle valve in it...
Am checking all suggestions. Have installed new 24V fuel pump. Still wants to stall. Have new spark plugs and am installing, but that is not why this thing keeps shutting down.
Back to the fuel pump, the one I took off had two wires going into the harness. I hooked up the hot wire to the new...
Sir, I believe I have what ever voltage is supposed to go to the points going there. I have not changed anything in that respect. This truck has ran fine for 15 years until this recent problem came up? We have now replaced the inline fuel filter, new points and condenser, replaced the broken...
Well I just installed new points, condenser and rotor. Will not start. In fact, soon as we tried it turned over a few times, and THE BATTERYS WENT DEAD. So now I am doubting everything I did?
I am putting a charger on it, and going to remove dist cap and recheck all I did. Maybe I have...
Sir, (I saw your message forwarded to my regular e-mail). I was asking regarding the capactor that connects to the coil, not the condenser on the points plate? That capacitor to the coil is what the wire pulled out from. My first chore this afternoon will be to replace those points and...
Well........ it is still shutting off. As always, runs just great, but shuts off. Then starts right back up?
So tomorrow, install new points and condenser.
But I have to ask, what does that capacitor even do?? HAd to be bad as the wire was not even connected? But it is acting just the same...
If this proves to have been the problem I am going to get another capacitor, as well as that wire wrapped voltage reducer as spares. I won't really be able to know if I have found the problem until my Son gets home from work? He will take it for a ride and then we'll know. I cannot getup in...