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Yeah that sounds like the kind of thing I would royally **** up... and/or find things seized. Once the stator is off... how does the rotor come off? I'm just envisioning how many things I've thrown away because I can't get the flywheels off.

What tool is used to remove the PMA? I know the manual referenced some standard tool... Heading to NorthernTool and wanted to pick up something that wold work.

24 volts from the battery direct to the governor is 2.2 amps draw. That's good news in that a much smaller MOSFET than I expected can probably be used. Now to see if I've got one around here... DA, I'm probably reinventing a lot of what you've done. Obviously a minimal step one is being able to...

Interesting... if the voltage range of the actuator in operations is 5.3-11VDC, are you having any issues with that driver? Or does some other factor of your design negate that? Edit: Also, is what you're working on top secret or what? Just a private project or... Be a shame for me to reinvent...

Ah-ha! DWNorton, thanks man. I had been through the TM several times but somehow missed this. Hope I didn't fry my actuator hitting it with 24 volts for brief moments. If the positioning of the actuator is just straight up voltage, that should be a piece of cake. Strange that, even though...

Thanks DA. I'm sure I'd be able to answer some of my own questions through experimentation, but I can't run the genny where it is right now, and can't get it moved out of the basement with the mess I've created. Still got one generator to sell and can't even get to it yet. Heh. Sounds like what...

If anyone could check the following with a basic multimeter at the speed controller it would be helpful... I can't run mine until I clean up the basement enough to skid the bastards out... Voltage between J / H On switch "On", prior to starting. On switch "On", prior to starting, battle...

I actually did that... it went in the "open" direction at both polarities, and my notes from testing a running one were not that it ran negative voltage... does yours behave differently? All of mine will happily run even with the fuel pump shut off, albeit poorly. Wish it were that simple...

Actually started fiddling with the Arduino today... scavenged a MOSFET of maybe-not-ideal specs from an old PC power supply. Fiddled with the actuator and tried to find some info on it... if it's anything like the other Governor's America Corp. devices I should be able to control it in a fairly...

It is definitely the 1500 watt heater. That outlet is only rated up to I think 10 amps, your heater is about 12.5 amps. It is a "convenience" outlet, and doesn't come anywhere close to supporting the power output of the generator or even a standard home circuit.

You can take the GFCI module out, wire it to your home wiring, and see if it trips there. If so (and your home wiring is correct), you know something! Or wire a known good GFCI outlet in place of it and see if it also trips. Note the GFCI is a convenience outlet, and is only rated for 10 amps...

Currently looking at the readily available generator heads in my area... Trying to figure out (without pulling the PWM off of one of my MEPs) whether these engines are compatible with J609A or J609B mounting specs. Will probably buy a 3 or 4 KW head once that's figured out, which will require...

Love it and will be sure to reference this in future! Will probably try to duplicate most of this effort with the MEP-831A... Question about the Midnite chargers... What do you think about their ability to, say.... accept rectified 3 phase 200 VAC from the MEP-831A PMA? I'm reaching out to some...

Oh, I know how to manually shut it down. But I'm thinking about preserving most of the other functionality, most crucial of which would be low oil pressure shut down. So for that, it would need to be able to shut itself down. And not by seizing the piston. :-) Would also be nice to make sure it...

As I stare down the barrel of possibly another MEP-831A with a faulty inverter, amidst thoughts of tearing into the inverter and rectifying the alternator output for high voltage DC use in a solar setup, I wonder... What would it take to make this work more like a MEP-016D... The first and most...

3 hours? What the heck is happening during that 3 hours? Operating temp shouldn't take that long... but I have no idea what a fdecu is. Sounds like like a bank. :-)

So based on your last sentence, you can prevent wet stacking by putting the engine under heavy load relative to the peak power output at the presently running RPM, with no need to ramp up the RPM to the point of max power output and then load it to that power output. An engine capable of 10 hp...

My question wasn't about the MEP 831A or L70 engines specifically, but about the phenomenon of wet stacking in general. I used the power output chart from the L70 simply as an example. Kind of like asking about how addition works, providing am example of 2+5 and someone saying "7, duh!"

831A. I am smoking crack. 317A is a road I used to ride my dual sport on.

317A. Oops. On a conference call. Heh.