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Can you teach your puppies to bring down a deer and drag it's carcass back to the house?

No problem. I think I'll be at the mabry thing, if that's what you mean. And the fix worked. 4WD light works now!

I soaked the switch in gasoline. Pressed the ball to open a space between it and the housing, then stuck a piece of copper safety wire in there to keep it open so gasoline could infiltrate. Let it soak a few hours, then worked the ball in and out by hand a bunch. Now it reads about 40 ohms...

I'll see if I can find some rubber plugs. Not a bad idea. I'm testing my switch now. When I depress the spring-loaded ball, it reads between 30k and 50k ohms. Seems awfully high. Corroded contacts?

I went ahead and drilled a 1/2" hole in the floor. And then I drilled a second one... in the right spot. Then I put a deep well socket on the switch, put extension through the hole and into the socket, and used a breaker with a cheater on the handle to break it loose. It was on there really...

Plain old black automotive RTV? I did that for my rear differential cover but I wasn't sure it was an accepted practice for the transfer case adapter connection.

Thanks I saw that. That's a wee bit bigger of a hole than I was thinking of!

I was able to get the pin. I was actually going after the wrong pin, previously. One is meant to be removed and the other isn't. The one that is meant to be removed is one of those bent vaguely "R-shaped" pins. Still can't get the switch off. The points were a bit damaged before I got to it...

The only thing I can find that might be the 4 wheel drive indicator light switch is in 2320-289-20p on page 148 (65-1) Number 51 on the diagram, part number 14037986 Description: "SWITCH,PUSH" Is that it?

I'm considering cutting a hole in the cab floor to be able to access the 4wd indicator light switch and the cotter pin holding the lever to the transfer case. Then bolting my fire extinguisher bracket over the hole to cover it up. Is this a crazy idea? Guess I'm just out of patience and...

Can't even get the cotter pin off the shift lever. Which is what would also need to happen if I wanted to drop the transfer case. So I guess I'm just going to have to live with no 4wd indicator light. Or just bypass the pressure switch and install an inline switch on the dash, then flip it...

Mark may not remember this, but he actually loaned me his rivet nut tool set. It's still in my garage, I think. Oh, and the Goat is looking good. Going over to an air conditioning guy's shop tomorrow to get some of my aluminum sheets cut on his sheer for the data/display plate stuff.

Does it clunk again when you start moving?

Yeah, I'll try disconnecting the shifter lever to see if I can get enough room in there to add some leverage.

ok, looking at the -20, it doesn't appear too difficult but a quick question: Can you reuse the transfer case adapter gasket? If not, can you simply use RTV instead?

My switch doesn't work. I jumped the switch wires and got the light to come on that way. I've been trying for the past couple of hours to remove the switch. I can get a wrench on it, but I can't get it to budge. And there's no room to get a cheater on the wrench.

Has anyone managed to get the old switch off without cutting a hole in the floor of the cab? I can't get mine to budge and there's not enough room to get a cheater bar on the wrench. Unless anyone's got any bright ideas, I'm about to just say "Screw it, I don't really need the indicator light"

Eh... for something like that, I'd be tempted to just epoxy the nut back on. You can get an ounce tube of devcon steel putty on amazon for 4 bucks. And that stuff works great.

The indicator bar on my transfer case didn't show any "bubble." So I took it apart and discovered what the problem was. The bubble is part of a single hard plastic piece which has two arms that capture the transfer case selector lever so that the lever moves the bubble up and down the glass...

... goes in the ditch along my road?