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So I'm trying to get this 1009 going. I just put new batts in it and I replaced the starter relay with Oreilly part# 7018601 per the doghead mod thread. When I turn the ignition, the relay clicks, but the starter motor doesn't activate. With the ignition switch set to "off" and my...

Stewart and Stevenson trucks. Like 2004ish manufacture trucks. They were just starting to trickle into the GL pipeline.

I have no information... I didn't even get the email. Heard about it second-hand from another member here, even though I've bought several 5 tons and deuces over the years. But... the EPA thing does sound plausible to me.

The diagnostic tool for the ABS on these trucks is available in europe from a few vendors, but it's a bit expensive. In the neighborhood of 350 bucks. Saw an old ebay listing of one for 40, tho. I'm curious what trucks in europe use the same ECU or compatible ABS parts as are on the 939...

You know, you could just do a run of PCBs and sell those with a component pack. End user gets to solder it all together. Might mitigate some of the liability.

Will do, Thanks. That's why I was thinking about doing this at the airport. No ditches or fences to run into if I lose power steering. Just clear grass field on either side.

There is a muni airport just down the road. I might see if they'll let me use the runway to test my ABS.

I got turned in series 31s for $40 apiece w/ core swap from an interstate battery warehouse. 1 year replacement warranty with them, too. You can fit 4 series 31s in the box and they will hook up with the existing cables (barely). The 6TLs have a higher reserve capacity than the series 31s...

Not surprising. When this one fails, I'll probably just go with a commercial AC delco alternator. Slightly related, you can make a Prestolite regulator work with a Hellas alternator. Turn down the tongue on the Prestolite regulator so it'll fit into the Hellas body and just hook up pins...

Thanks, I will look into doing exactly that. I'm sure it was an alternator issue. I just replaced the voltage regulator on mine. Old one had VERY burnt out diodes on it.

I would buy another ECU, but I just don't have the money. Is there really no way to clear an error code on these things without the reader tool from haldex?

Ok, there is something to the original post in this thread. Before doing anything: My ABS light was always on Would blow the 15 amp fuse under dash every time No self check clicks After pulling the ECU and clipping the 5kp33ca diode in the picture: ABS light still always on No longer blows...

I will likely need to replace mine as it is lying on the floor of the cab still over at the auction yard. However, I was thinking more along the lines of just cleaning it up and replacing all the components with new ones from a parts house like mouser.

Thanks. It went cheaper than I thought it might and the potential electrical issues doesn't particularly bother me. Mostly I want to get it home and check it over to see if the engine will at least run. I've certainly got alot of spare transmissions for it...

Thanks, low coolant module is what it looks like. That other thread is a great asset, too.

I just won a 1009 out of GSA pretty cheap. It will have some issues starting, I am certain. I see two connectors on the wiring harness disconnected along with a circuit board in a plastic housing with some capacitors and other components abandoned on the floor of the cab. Any idea what I'm...

That is awesome dude, thanks.

Any EMP close enough/powerful enough to kill the electronics on your truck will be eclipsed by the heat/blast melting the frame and tossing the wreckage 1,000 yards. It's not an issue.

My 1990 manufacture 923a2 PCB looks like that.

That's a good idea, but that actually gives me another idea that would make it a little more hands-free and secure... I'll just take a PVC end cap and turn/thread the inside to match the tank cap threads on my lathe, then install a schrader valve on the pvc endcap. Should be safe enough at...