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Where did you find them for 1.52 ea? I can't seem to find them on mouser, digikey, or allied I did find these on mpja, tho http://www.mpja.com/LM-317-2V-To-35V-Adjustable-Voltage-Regulator/productinfo/0365%20RG Actually, I think these will work perfectly. Brain vaporlocked for a sec there.

Neat. Thanks, I'll give that a look. I do like the idea of giving it a bit of failure tolerance.

Sounds good. What component would you recommend? The LEDs I'm using draw 20 mA and have a voltage drop between 1.7 and 2.3. 1.9 nominal. I did read on another website (guy doing this for his motorcycle brake lights) where they used a current regulating diode in lieu of a resistor. But...

Very cool. How did you wire the vehicle to active the reverse lights?

Interesting. I considered going with smaller tires to lower the trailer, but instead decided on a custom pintle mount riser. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow. I can flat tow an 1102 behind a chevy 1/2 ton pickup. Or I can lower the hook on the mount and flat tow a 101a2 behind the same...

Interesting. Sounds too rich for my blood, tho. :D I'm shooting for under a dollar a light, total cost (not counting my time.)

Some guy out of hong kong is selling 100 super bright (20,000mcd) LEDs with 100 1/4watt-rated resistors for 5.75, shipped on ebay. I couldn't resist. Resist. Get it? 8) Anyways, I'm going to see if I can scrounge up some perfboard or something and wire up a drop in LED module for a...

Fantastic! Thanks for posting all those pics. Would love to do something similar, myself.

Nope. I just went to an oilfield supply place and got a camlock fitting with a barb end and some smaller dia, more flexible hose than the military stuff and used that. Nozzle on the end of that would probably be a good idea.

Now to leak test and see if the gasket works. The 24V pumps are great. Mkcoen gave me his and I've used it to pump about 500 gallons or so of WMO into the top of a tank on a 12 foot stand. Not for deuce fuel (future cast iron melting furnace fuel) It worked pretty hard on some of that...

So bottom line is, the solenoid has to be installed on the starter motor in order for both the hold-in and pull-in coils to be energized, correct? I'll take the starter motor apart tonight and see what the brushes look like.

I've tried taking the new solenoid off of the motor and testing it independently, but I still cannot get it to actuate. That's with me applying +25V to the S terminal and ground to the body of the solenoid. There is continuity between those two points, too.

Hm. Installed new solenoid, still couldn't get the solenoid to actuate or the motor to spin. Definite short circuit between operator's ears.

Place I listed is in San Antonio. They shipped yesterday and it got here today in a regional rate A USPS box. I'm wondering if I need to put any bearing grease or anything on the plunger of the new solenoid before I install it.

Instead of a bent steel bracket, how about a beefy cast aluminum one? With a decent capacity 3D printer (I've got a Mendel 1.5), you could pretty easily make the pattern. Then finish machine the critical surfaces on a mill to get a good compressor fit.

No point in coming down here until I've got the part in. Hopefully I'll at least have it running by then.

It was the starter. I pulled the starter and did the no-load test described in the 28MT starter service manual. No movement or spark with +12V across B and S and ground cable touched to frame of motor. Then checked for continuity between the B terminal and the Motor terminal. No continuity...

With lower range selected reads "1" aka outside the range. The starter is connected and I agree, it should have cranked as soon as I hooked up the batteries even with the ignition in the off position. It did not.

Starter is connected but not turning over. I just got this vehicle at auction and haven't gotten it to run, yet. Relay shows continuity... sort of. Measuring between the two big terminals in the 200k ohm range, it reads 40. Is 40k ohms continuity?

Red wire and solid purple wire. Reads 25V with ignition in the off position. It's a relay. The coil engages when I turn the ignition to start. I can both hear this (and feel it, because I'm holding multimeter leads against it) and measure that it is happening by reading 12V at the black and...