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That's what my m1009 does about 50% of the time. Gen 1 light stays on until I blip the throttle and the engine goes into high idle. Sometimes. Half the time it goes out within half a second of engine start, just like gen 2.

100k before significant blow-by or 100k before likely epic failure? Thanks for the advice guys. If these engines will get 200k miles before a rebuild, that's really not bad.

I ask that, because I just got a 92k miles on the odometer m1009. It runs and drives (now). I had to replace the batts, starter, and starter relay to get it moving, but all told wasn't too expensive. Doghead's lawnmower relay, cheap chinese starter (Gear reduced), and used interstate batts...

I know this is anecdotal... but I knew a guy at the sikorsky operation around here (before it closed) who drove his 6.2 diesel bronco to work every day. He said he had 300k miles on that engine and it was still going strong. I've heard alot of anecdotes like that. Cucvrus probably had it...

What's the voltage on the battery? Both with the engine running and not.

You could check compression quick and dirty with a digital oscilliscope. One that logs and graphs current draw over time. Saw that on a car program. The ammeter function of the o-scope measures current of the starter motor. Just disconnect the fuel and crank the starter motor for a few...

Is that canvas or vinyl or something else?

You might also consider keeping your overall power use within what the alternators can handle. Frequently discharging the batteries through power tool use is probably hard on them.

Thanks, I have the gear reduced version, which uses a different bracket. I have the bracket for both, tho.

Thanks, cucvrus, much appreciated.

I'll give you 5 dollars to come do it for me.

Oh yeah, the funniness. Managed to drop one of the flange bolts out as I was putting the starter in place. Right into my mouth. Chipped one of my front teeth. Hooray for me.:cry:

24V Gear reduced. It's a replacement from DB electrical.

That's the one I lost. It was such an ordeal getting the starter back on, I really don't want to take it off again to try test fitting a bunch of different nuts.

Installing a new starter on the 1009 this evening. Managed to get the large cable on (because I replaced it with a slightly longer cable), then bolted the starter up to the engine. In the attempt of trying to put the smaller wire on by feel, I managed to lose the nut that holds the wire ring...

Not to nitpick, but wouldn't it shed water better if the patch was on the outside? Or does the glue sufficiently melt the vinyl to form a solid seal?

I paid about the same price as mkcoen, though mine had an incomplete jack and the rear curtain on the cover is bit rough. They do work like socks on a rooster, tho. :D I picked mine up in Fort Worth, then drove back by way of Fort Hood and picked up 4 th400 transmissions in the trailer and...

I need to replace the end curtain on my 1102, so this is of interest. Looking like it'll take two yards to do it.

Cool, thanks for the info. I'll have to read up on how schottky diodes work, tho to understand how to do it. I was reading up here about how to wire these voltage regulators up. http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/LM317-voltage-regulator Seems pretty straight-forward. How do I...

It doesn't get down to freezing temperatures very often here, but it does in north Texas in winter. I may pay a little more and go with lower temp range than 0C How about these? Good fit for this application? http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NJM317F/NJM317F-ND/805705