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The log truck and brush trucks don't have roll cages, the cage is designed to keep tree limbs from coming through the windshield. And whatever that is on the expedition truck doesn't look like it would support much weight.

Time to crack them open and see how they are wired.

Im interested to see the performance and durability of those electric fans. I like the idea of taking that constant drag off the engine, as long as your alternator is making enough juice to keep them turning. Then again, I like that the deuce is almost "bomb proof" and electrics will only...

Most things on automation direct are very budget friendly, and surprisingly good quality. *i have no affiliation with them, but I use their stuff at work fairly often. thats also where i get my 24v LED indicator lights for around $5 ea.

Sounded to me like it was a major system failure while moving. Not a "hey, let's drive it anyway." Granted, they should have pulled off the road while they still had 60psi+.

A battery at 11.9v has less than 40% of it intended capacity. Charge your batteries.

That's the difference between driving ON the snow, and driving IN the snow. For people driving on poorly treated roads, floatation isn't your friend. For the situation in the video, it obviously is.

I feel like, by the time you need that gage, you're already screwed.

A 5/3 or 5/2 toggle valve with one of the outputs plugged should do what you need. Without anything electric. http://www.automationdirect.com/static/specs/nitradirectionmanualvalves.pdf

In the far left of this pic, there is a deuce hood showing. This is the only pic I got from that weekend with any part of a deuce in it.

Still sounds like you have a loose connection between the battery and the starter. I would re-check all connections and follow along the wires to look for damaged sections. If the jacket wears down on the cables, water gets in and corrosion takes care of the rest. If the batteries are truly...

I'd be in for a couple if the price was under, say, $20ea delivered.

Digging up this old thread as I have the same issue. Passenger side of the block glistens with oil, all stemming from the regulator. Is there anything complicated about the gasket? I'm not afraid to cut one out, I just need to know if I'll need a box cutter, or an exacto knife.

My m35 is back on active duty. Finally got my alternator swapped out. I picked it up back before christmas. Time flies and all that. Now, I think it needs a new thermostat. Back in the summer it got up to temp ok, but anything below 40 and it doesn't seem to want to. The m109 in the same...

The connecting rods are never pulled. There's no throttle plate, theres no engine braking by vacuum. The engine braking happens when the pistons compress the intake charge, but there's insufficient fuel for a combustion event, so theres no power added to the crank, only lost to pumping.

Do you have access to the VIN/Serial data as well? I understand the gentleman that used to offer such a service is no longer able to do so.

I take the redline very seriously. I find that keeping the engine around 1800RPM gives adequate engine braking without risk to the engine. I also use the service brakes to maintain speed to ensure the revs don't creep up on me. I live in a mountainous area with lots of "switch backs" and...

Yeah, and right above that it states "Team up brakes and downshifting". The last time it came up I mentioned that I used the engine to help control speed when going down long grades, and was told I was doing it wrong. Thats EXACTLY what is described on pgs 13 & 14.

Funny how that document recommends using the brakes and downshifting when descending a hill, but when the topic came up here, everyone said engine braking was specifically not recommended in the documentation.

I was basically required to reg my M35 as commercial, but my M109 is registered and titled as a "camper van" here in TN. But I live in a very rural area and have no concerns over parking.