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Alright, so i took the truck for a drive today. Gauge seems to be working, my readings are as follows: 60psi cold idle, 38-40 hot idle, 55-60 cruising. Does this seem normal?

yeah, i snugged it up, stopped leaking, but it's still sticking at like 58-60 psi.

Would over tightening the compression fittings (ferrules) cause the psi to stick at 55 and not move?

If you think it can be done with a wrench, then that'll save me some money. Let me know :-D

same results as in? Same pressure readings until you tightened the nut on the valve or just the leak? It does, thanks! Do I need a special socket to get the sending unit out or no?

Where is that located?

I bought and installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge today, i tapped into the valve on the drivers side of the radiator. Cracked open the valve, started the engine and the gauge was reading a steady 55psi and not budging, even when hammering the throttle. I did notice that little valve was...

I know, man. I appreciate all the info you've offered, but at the same merit the tank is 40-ish years old and tanks aren't totally expensive.

haha, i think ill probably just buy a new tank and complete sender unit to save myself the hassle of cleaning.

No, I haven't. would it be worth looking into the filler cap via a flashlight to see if there's any junk in there?

Another issue has arisen and it has me pulling my hair out. Today i took the truck for a 100+ mile trip and at some points during the trip the truck would completely fall on its face with no power. even at full throttle it would sound bogged (the sound of low rpms) and struggle to get over...

both of you have good sound approaches to this. At this point i think i'll just add an oil pressure gauge, keep an eye on the oil level and leave it at that. Furthermore, I simply love to take care of my rigs as if they're my kids, it crushes me to see them down and out of the ball game. Thanks...

Very true and well said, i'll certainly take heed.

Updating this thread. Got around to working on the truck, replaced the fuel filter, installed a brand new ac delco CDR valve (maybe thats why its eating oil). As far as the no start issues, i had to replace the entire starter wiring harness and push button switch due to severe electrical...

1. How long did you run it low on oil ?---no idea. I change it every 3k miles and have never had this issue until checking it the other day. 2. Have you dropped the starter and tested it ?---wil be doing that on tuesday 3. Have you traced the wires to the push button start system ?---yes, i...

Is the pump style block heater frowned upon? Right, so what will besides tearing apart the block?

I'm thinking about running a compression test on all 8 cylinders to determine if any internal engine damage was caused. Do you presume this is a decent idea?

No idea, it came on the truck when i bought it. It's a pump style block heater that circulates the coolant throughout the engine.

I had just installed a brand new gear reduction starter 9 months ago and yeah, i do have a block heater, but it runs me about $85-$90 a night to run it, so i dont use it. Also, im not sure if it runs through the relay under the dash or not. I wired it directly into the wiring harness that runs...

I have 2 brand new batteries in my rig, only a few months old, but i have noticed every morning that the cranking is super slow and im guessing thats due to the low temps here lately. Any idea what might have stuck and burned up when i pushed the switch in the last time i tried to start it?