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welcome to SS......There is a recent thread (within a few weeks), someone was looking for an example of a 1009 for some reason...... I just cant remember why, I had suggested that guy find pictures of this blazer online.......this is the one on u-tube right.......:-D

if I read this right.....you cant tell the difference. I do agree with the TM's on the syn recommendation.....it's all about base ingridients and how they react to/control heat.....you might have to be more specific...:-D

I may not be answering your question, i'm sure the guys using these trucks had to settle for something different than the specified dot 5 from time to time, and I bet anything will work if not mixed improperly (dot 3,4,5,syn,non syn...):-D

I can understand if the glow plug cycles and cranking cycles in excess during cold weather cause a drain on the batterys more than normal. All the alts know how to do is work. The heater would not generally be on high when weather is warm aswell, just more strain on the charging system than...

I would try a bunch of dry gaphite sprayed in there and working it with a key, one little hunk of dirt will cause that. It is a moot point if the cylinder is completely bad though.:-D

One other thing that just came to mind is, I too have to try 2 sometimes 3 times cycling the plugs while trying to start the truck (ya ya, thier bad). The volt guage never shows in the yellow for me though, at first startup it's even a little in the red and then drops as it "catches up"...

I have a similiar issue with belt squeeling and such, my belts look good and the reciept shows only 4 months old, i'm going to try belt dressing and keeping a watchful eye on the tension for a while. It is also really cold here and these problems only arrived with the change in season.:cry:

I took a couple of measurements to see what I was up against........ pintle height on 1008 is 27.5" Approx height at hookup point on bottom of winch bumper of mud truck is 34" 6.5" is alot of slope in 3-4', what distance is generally between vehicles when hooked together? I could also try to...

This "medium" tow bar.......does any one have a good pic or two if it. It would be cool to use military design if possible. Does anyone have any great ideas about how I could design a tow bar to run uphill (from 1008 to lifted truck bumper)and eliminate the tendancy for the front of the truck...

I bet your mechanic will use either new or used knuckles from an early dana44. The "flat top" version has an over hung tie-rod aswell. It may be a bit overkill, but 3/8 wall DOM tubing with weld in bungs and (one each) left hand/right hand threaded heims on each end make your steering...

All good points, the front posi doesn't matter with the hubs unlocked, the rear does present a little problem but with all the leverage pulling around corners it isn't too bad. The only thing in the steering presenting a problem is the tie-rod, would be a good idea to have a spare in the tool...

I typically dont air down for muddin', sometimes I even air up the front a little to get easier wheel speed, and I run radials , not bias. I dont have the patience on road to wait for a $350 tire to "get round again" lol :-D

I am looking for some pics of tow bars that you guys have. They can be military issue or custom. I looked around and found the one niferous did(well done) and a couple others and am still looking for more ideas. I like the one rally rebel showed in his pics of recent misfortune (condelances)...

I would suggest you not lower the t-case. I have had many front driveline issues with angularity and I have come to the conclusion it does not help unless the bind issue is at the axle yoke, you will not have a problem with this. I used a magnetic angle finder when setting my truck up the last...

that is the cooper discoverer STT, they are pretty good for traction but wear pretty quickly.......if you were looking for an upgrade from these it would be the Toyo MT, great overall traction and usually wear 40-50 thousand miles:-D

sounds like you probably need a starter/flywheel, there is a recent thread about inspection/testing how the starter contacts the flywheel, find that thread and I bet you find your answer:-D

Bad Mechanics... I also agree the problem is pinion, you'll have to get a new crush collar if your fixing it yourself. Most of the time when they get loose one or more of the shims near the pinion gear itself end up getting chewed up and spit out. Most likely the cause of not being setup...

I really hope I dont get booo'd of this site.......I like my 6.2 and have already found most of the pro's and cons of having one, it is a cool truck (1008) and is less common than normal just because of the 6.2.............I'm going 454 Chevy in this thing when the 6.2 dies :wink:

the 12v batt is closest to the core support......not the fire wall! This may be why you've had an issue:-D:-D:-D

careful which spray in bed liner you choose, many of them get very slippery when wet. I know you cant really stand up i:-Dn one anyhow but cargo will slide easily too