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when I was making the switch from a 1/2 ton truck to a 3/4 ton with axle swaps I ended up using those conversion joints for a while...JUNK, they would always burn up within 5000 miles or so, I found a 3/4 ton van and took the slip yoke from it, it slid right on the rear drive shaft and solved...
thanks for the info guys, i'm still unclear on one thing.....if I dont unhook the two batteries from each other are you saying I can charge the rear batt still......like pos #2 and ground on #1...thats 24v, i'm not picking up what your throwin' down very well......:-D
It may sound a little redneck but you could get 2 solid 3" wheels ( kinda like castors only fixed) and mount them in the front where your shackles go, then just pull the pin and remove them to put your shackles there! approach angle problem solved...lol:-D
is it ok to charge both batts by hooking a single 12v charger/jump box to the neg on batt 1 and the neg on batt 2(positive)...will it work to slowly jump start a truck if nato slave is not available......bad batt thread inspired this question and I need to know because I do not have slave/or...
altenator problem is what it sounds like, lots of threads here on that! As far as jumping it....of course the batt closest to the core support0#1) is standard for hook up with cables...
I meant from side to side, and yes, good idea to use a shorter bolt, maybe even one of those hands free nuts like the battery trays use to bolt to the inner fender.:-D
I just went through this same thing in a slightly different context....... the only problems you'll have is the pressure lock that happens if you dont have some holes cut opposite of where you fill. The stuff doesn't "shoot" like you want it to, plan on it expanding at most 24" into the cavity...
correct, they are non greasable, when I ran them I bought a tube of synthetic grease to make sure they were greased well before installation, then I would use the rest of the tube to re-do wheel bearings/other u-joints . I never had any trouble with them getting worn or failing prematurely with...
if the retaining nuts are off you can turn the steering wheel to free up some room and use a dead blow hammer against the rotor where the caliper would be while you turn the rotor slowly, i've had this happen when I got mud/dirt in there 4 wheelin'. good luck BTW, use some pb blaster on the...
just wanted to mention that sometimes it's good to have a predictable weak link, u-joint serves this purpose well. The 1350 u-joints that the rear shaft uses are twice as strong as half ton stuff to begin with, I cant imagine it being a common problem to break them unless there is another...
This is my 1008, bought about 4 months ago. I'm already hooked on these trucks!:-D This 1009 belongs to a friend of mine, I'm sorry to say it no longer has the 6.2.
I weighed my 1008 when I dropped off some garbage at the incinerator, it was 6300 with some tools in the back, i'm betting right at 6000 if driving unprepared.:-D
the treaded hole w/ bolt trick is a great one to know! Just make sure you get a bolt long enough at the hardware store...but not too long, I think anything over 2" has clearance issues for your wrench, atleast it did on my small block.:-D
the lenses on mine are plastic :cry:. Do they also come in glass? Mine appear to have a rubber/plastic hard coating on the back that make them water proof/non-rebuildable. Do they offer them as a screw together unit that could be rebuilt if the glass/plastic was broken?:-D
Does anyone know if I can buy new lenses for my B.O. lights, and where I might get them? When I bought my 1008 I noticed that someone didn't bother to tape them off when they painted the truck flat black. I tried all sorts of chemicals to get the paint off without melting the plastic....nothing...
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