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When mine went out, I went through 3 of them from the auto parts place before I got a working refurb. I don't know what else to suggest other than to keep trying different units. Could you not find adapters instead for the -an to inverted flare (I think) that the stock unit uses. I don't think...

Thank you that was very thorough and informative. The idea was to run the glow plugs off of it. Two batteries at -30* have more oomph than just one. I guess I can find me a resistor for that. The original design works best (go figure lol) I will try to find a converter for the jump start...

As part of my winterization (for Alaska) I want to get away from using the front battery only for my 12v source. I have the resistor delete set up right now. I read the CUCV-II's use a step down transformer instead of the resistor. I found an old thread with a link to this...

Spongy Brake Pedal Gremlins and Woes: Started out with winterizing the truck (moving to Alaska in a few months), wanted to put in some fancy brake fluid and clean out the old stuff. Truck has been converted to rear disks btw. Found that one of the bleeder screws was crossthreaded and jammed in...

I got the jatonka ones recently. They're really good quality. Will probably outlast the truck. Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

I've seen many beds in decent shape at the parts yards and once in a while some for sale in the military truck groups on Facebook / eBay / (or here) I've also heard of people letting the insurance total the truck and then just buying it back from them. The type of title probably won't bother...

Yes that's correct. Turn the steering wheel and nothing happens. Before I put cross over steer on I had almost half a turn of nothing. Ideally the steering should not be loose at all Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

What's normal depends if you've lifted the truck or left it stock. My M1009 when it was stock had almost no play in the steering. After a lift the steering was very loose until I changed it to cross over steer. Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

Been chasing spongy brake pedal gremlins for over a month now. Old MC wasn't able to fully actuate the rear disk brakes, it was running out of fluid. I also snapped a brake line (few posts above). Took off the original disk/drum proportioning valve in exchange for an adjustable one (can see it...

Done messed up. Time to buy some tools Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

Already have my head buried in the truck trying to sort out the gremlins (this month its the brake system and the proportioning valve). Between that and work I've no time for models. Just saw the price... 75 euros for something I wanna use as a dash ornament, that will bake in the Georgia sun...

I..... Need this for reasons https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07ZG8B3XW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ivWbFbKM9ZH6Q Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

One of my locking hubs disintegated, caused a bunch of noise on one side. If you set both hubs to lock does the noise go away?

Someone can correct me if Im wrong, but the glowplug blade connectors are simply these things...

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the speedo cable is supposed to be lubed with thick axle grease. Unless your PO put something else in there?

replace the whole thing. Its not expensive

Is your high idle / cold advance kicking on when you start it? You'll need to depress the pedal slightly to get it to stay on. Mine always smokes on cold mornings, but idles smooth one the cold advance is on. Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

Did you just let the plug dangle in the grill? Or set up a clean looking plug somewhere? Also, anyone have a particular brand or type of antifreeze they use? Walmart has a -50* rated one but it has bad reviews.

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