Search results

It is very similar, but not exactly the same. The actual job of re-wiring the reconnection board is quite a bit easier, as there is more room to work. I am working on a video from an -006 conversion that I did...just haven't had the time to edit and upload it yet.

x4 what those guys said! Frequency physically cannot differ from phase to phase (with your generator head, anyway). My "cheap" frequency meter will bounce all over the place if the generator is not producing power (detecting noise) but locks into a steady reading once the field is flashed...

I have never done a 120/240 delta re-wire on one of these...but I know it is possible! It would require removal of the voltage reconnection board (or customization of the plate). The rest of the generator systems should have no problem with this configuration, as it is still 120v per phase.

Just completed a single phase conversion on an -006a, and I shot some video of the process. The conversion is similar to the -004/-005 one, but quicker and less difficult due to better access to the voltage reconnection board. I will edit and upload the video soon; sometime in the coming few...

The wattage rating should be 10 watts or more. The resistance rating of 38 ohm will provide 100% accurate meter readings and trip setpoints. A slightly higher resistance value will result in slightly higher meter readings, and slightly lower trip setpoint. The 50 ohm resistors I used resulted...

Glad you were able to complete the conversion! I never did get a video made of the CT mod/resistor placement. But, I don't really feel like one is necessary. The procedure is fairly simple; you just place 3 resistors across the 3 CT outputs. Anything between 38-50 ohms would work fine...

Actually, he was quoting me when discussing the jumper...and it was actually my typo (see post number 40). My post should have read " cut the buss bar that connected T10, T11, and T12 together and ran the jumper from T12 to T2" I would correct it, but it appears that I cannot edit a post that...

Coarse adjustment is accomplished inside that black box that I described in an earlier post; most of them are labelled "frequency transducer" on the top of the case (but some are not). Completely removing it and wiring to household current and adjusting for 60hz as PeterD describes is a good...

1-2hz droop from zero to full load is normal. I'm sure there's a spec for it but that will be close enough. If you go for too little droop, you will experience hunting and surging, too little droop and the frequency will drop off too much as the set is loaded. The frequency knob is present...

Frequency is controlled by engine RPM. Faster the engine turns, the higher the frequency. But...didn't you determine that you had a 400hz unit? If so, then it could not have been re-wired to produce 50hz...not without changing the entire generator head itself. The current transformers are...

That knurled knob adjusts droop (how much RPM/frequency drops off as the set is loaded). You must have had some sticky linkage inside of the injection pump that was freed up by moving that knob... The difference between your actual voltage and frequency is a common problem...most of the sets I...

Nothing controls engine speed, beyond the throttle arm and the governor arm on the injection pump. I have seen lots of governor linkages that were not safety wired to anything...they seem to still work fine. But, movement of that arm does affect engine speed. I would start your set up, run...

So your set is running at idle...let's correct that before going any further! A diesel engine may not exhibit surging if it has a fuel delivery problem...in fact, it often times will slowly idle down until it dies. You said it seems as though the throttle arm is moving through its full range...

You are correct; frequency will be the same at the convenience receptacle and the output terminals. You can measure it at any of those locations. Remember that the main breaker needs to be closed if you want to measure output at the terminal lugs...for that reason I recommend measuring at the...

I will address your other questions after we have solved the frequency issue. My first question...are you only running the set at idle? Frequency is dependent on RPM, and it will stay pegged low if you have the set at idle. The voltage regulator/exciter will also not work properly at idle and...

Yep, that one should work fine. It is about the right resistance value, and its 25W power capacity is more than enough. But, you do need 3 of them (you said that there were 2 in an ebay auction). Try looking at www.digi-key.com before you buy the ebay ones...I think you'll find them for about...

Glad I could be of help! The resistors are an option that I didn't put into the video. The adjust the % power meter, % total current meter, and overload trips to accurately reflect the load on the generator. It works fine if you don't install them; the meters just read a bit too high and the...

I have heard that some of them use 10 lead generator heads...if that is the case, then my instructions will not work with those sets. Even if they have 12 lead heads, I can't guarantee that the conversion is exactly the same since I've never had one in my shop. I'd take a look at the set you...

No! Don't throw it out...100% of the engine system, and about 95% of the electrical system are interchangeable with the 60hz sets. The 400hz sets are needed for parts to keep the 60hz ones running! Sorry for your luck...but you're not the first to make that mistake. The 400hz/60hz question...

Those label plates are on the ASK, and not on the generator...pretty normal to see both sets of ratings on that data plate. 99.9% sure you have a 400hz unit.