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Also be sure to put the heating element in the 12 o'clock position. I have not had any issues, make sure the freeze plug hole is squeaky clean and that you follow the instructions. The one I installed last gave a torque value for the expanding fastener. Dig up an inch pound torque wrench and...

Strobeoscope is another option. Most decent modern timing lights have a strobeoscope feature. I have a 15 year old Ferret timing light that can be ramped up and down to measure the speed of speed of anything that rotates at least 300rpm.

I can't seem to use the search from my Android phone. Using Firefox as my browser I use the "Google custom search" on the site I get this when I try to follow one of the search results... "We're sorry. We were unable to access the page that you requested." Any ideas? It is a pain to have to...

I would not use the newer pump suggested in the article. Rock auto shows a serpentine drive belt for the 6.5 engines in the year range that the pump was designed for. Trying to retrofit a CUCV with a serpentine drive belt system would be difficult. A high flow pump will be a no or low flow...

Looks like I gave bad info on the timing cover gasket, anerobic goop is the right stuff to use. For anerobic magic gasket goop I use loctite 715 For thread sealant I really like the anerobic pipe dopes that loctite makes. I use Loctite 565 or 567 for pipe and bolt threads.

Just compare it to your old one. The castings are different where the impeller is. I don't have any photos.

It isn't too bad. One goofy thing about the 6.2/6.5 is that the timing cover is sandwiched under the water pump. You'll need to pull out the oil filler, remove the water pump and timing cover. Really the only thing I would suggest is that you get a fresh timing cover gasket, because they don't...

I know the question was for the op, but I figured I'd toss in my $.02. I have ORD'S "quick disconnect" setup for my sway bar. It is a neat system if you want to retain a sway bar, but need to move your axle forward with different springs or zero rate blocks. If you want a disconnect for the...

The retainers just fail. That is why Stanadyne abandoned the design and went to an all steel weight retainer. You can get a gasket kit, with a new urethane ring if you want to try a diy repair. If you try to repair it yourself expect that it may not work... but then again it may. There are...

Yep. Max is 1" foward from the stock location. If you want to move it further you would need to go with the rear tie rod. I've never done that and don't know how bad interference would be with the oil pan and crossmember

That is too bad that your pump does not have the "E" tag. That means you still have the old urethane governor weight retainer that falls apart.

Excellent. Be aware if you ever decide to go with ORD high steer you might run into your tie rod hitting your pitman arm if you move your axle too far foward. I did crossover with high steer and hydraulic assist on a m1008 and used ORD'S "drop" arm. It hit the high steer tie rod. Ended up...

Is that a Steiner tractor behind the CUCV? What are your plans for steering? Going to move the front axle foward at all? Plan on replacing your kingpins to kill the death wobble?

I was just suggesting an alternative as it was stated that the controller card was missing, and that the stock harness has been pruned, resistor pack removed etc... The civilian style controller and harness plug is about $100.00, and the controller is common parts store item if you need one on...

I would be really surprised if the pulley came off the shaft on it's own. Normally they come off the pump with part of the shaft, or the entire shaft. There is a small circlip that retains the shaft in the pump, if it fails out comes the shaft with the pulley. Other thing that is common is...

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Micharoe/2009-12-29_200141_86_diesel.gif You might consider a contoller retrofit if your stock glow control system is a total loss. I have no idea how easily it could be retrofitted to a CUCV, but it may be worth looking at. The system is simple and works...

I should clarify. You need a 30mm deep socket. Stahlwille 51-30 is a really nice socket for injectors, but it is spendy. As far as the cleaning goes, you want everything to be a clean as possible before you start, getting a tiny bit of crud in the cylinder isn't good, but getting a tiny bit...

It will be interesting to see what the shop comes up with. What is it like on a cold start? Does it smoke at all? If it does smoke does it just smoke from one side or both? Is the smoke white, blue or grey? Does it consume any fluids? My wild guess would be injection issues. Take a...

I dug around in my injection pump stash, turns out that the lid of a DB2 pump for a HMMWV has an extra hole in it. The 24 volt cold advance solenoid has two terminals instead of one like a CUCV 12 volt one. A couple ice cube relays and you could use the HMMWV pump as-is, one for the cold...

Just take the top off of your old pump and put it on your new one. If you want to swap the solenoid in the lid you should really get a seal kit for the pump so that you can replace the seals that go on the coil studs where the penetrate the lid. Be sure to properly install the lid, you do not...