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From the picture it looks like my 12 bolt wheels have the longer knurled section. The studs off my later style 12 bolt wheels have a knurled section about 7/16 or 11mm. That should be perfect, I can purchase (for $35) and ship just one wheel shell to harvest for 24 spare studs. Below is a...
Anybody know if the wheel studs are identical between any of the different wheel styles? I can get a cheap 24 bolt wheel shell, and I'm curious if the studs would work in my late style 12 bolt (non conical washer) wheels.
Thanks for your time,
Peter.
If you can't wiggle it at all by hand the gasket is stuck. If you can move it by hand get a second helper or pry it over to where it needs to be and tighten it down. You should not need to loosen the injector lines.
If you want to try rebuilding one yourself it is pretty easy. A good Gates brand kit is about $30 off of rock auto. Do a search for Gates 350440.
Get the box bare, then remove the four bolts that hold the sector shaft cap on, remove the cap. Next pull the sector shafts out of the box, you...
Your timing is too retarded. Correct timing is NOT having the marks alligned. The pump mark should be offset to the drivers side. If you download "The 6.2 Liter diesel engine" GM training manual 16015.05-1C there is a nice illustration (4-166) on page 4-99 that shows that the correct...
Nice. I just watched his 700r4 overview video on youtube. https://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=idB8VA1bVLk
Looks like a good rebuilder, she seems sold on the Sonnax parts, and isn't going to up sell you to some garbage aftermarket planetary gears.
Looks like his level two or three build would be...
I tried to answer most of your questions in the quote above. It is kind of a pain to read since it is hard to pick out the text I added.
You can spend a little or a lot on your 700r4 build. Personally there are a couple things that I think are must-do upgrades.
1) Use a Sonnax brand "smart...
Your injection pump may need some work. If your compression checks out ok, and everything else checks out it may be time to get comfortable in the engine compartment and pull your injection pump.
Hopefully the picture works. It is actually a regulator, there should be a spring and ball inside. The part # is 14067420 or Stanadyne 23183. You can get them new from your local injection shop, or from eBay or other sources. If you live near a pick-n-pull wrecking yard there are often a 6.2...
As long as you move your axle foward and are not shy with the cutoff wheel you can make them fit with little to no lift. One other thing, with zero rates you may need to trim a little off the threaded portion of your drag link ball joints. When you move the axle foward you have to shorten the...
Looks like that pump is a 10-14 psi output. It should work fine. How you put the lid on doesn't affect the cold advance. Lid instill should always be done with the throttle shaft in the idle position. Put the lid on the pump as far twards the front of the engine as possible, then slide it...
You should advance the timing. I'd advance it twards the drivers side 2mm ish. Cold starting with retarded injection timing results in no starting.
Also, how much pressure is your lift pump putting out? Is your return line unobstructed and intact?
I have a confession... I own a 1982 GMC K2500 diesel with a home built 700r4 and D60/Corp14 with a detroit. Kinda a M1008 clone.. It used to have 4.10 gears, I installed 4.88 gears so that my final ratio would be identical to what it was with 4.10's and stock tires. Since both of my axles...
No, I have not done it.
I went the opposite way... 4.88 gears with a 700r4 and 37" tires.
Changing gears in the 14 bolt is easy, a shade tree mechanic one day job. However swapping gears in a Dana 60 is a lot more involved. You should really use a case spreader, and it involves a lot of...