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Hahahaaa!! Yeah, new wheel bearings are sealed for "lifetime" alright... The ones in my jeep are OK so far after numerous fordings, but I know I'm shortening their "lifetime" everytime I hit the water. As for the CUCV, which is the only vehicle that matters anyway, I'd pull the locking...

Yeah, the axles in the middle thing is less than ideal. Weight at both ends instead of centered makes swaying worse when it does happen... Perhaps with the strange tandem bogey setup, high speed tracking is never going to be good... Either way, if tongue weight was <400lbs empty and you...

You may already know this, but the reason the trailer was fishtailing above 52 is that you have it loaded really tongue light with the compressor way to the back... That's scary, 'cause if you happen to be heading uphill, it'll stay stable to a higher speed, and then you crest over, and it'll...

Just a quick not on the block heater... I don't recall the dia, but the the block heater for a 90ish to 2003 Jeep 4.0L works good. I think they're only 600w heaters, so I used two, one in the front and one in the back. I have a magnetic oil pan heater too, and all three plugged into one...

Bjorn, you run 70psi in the fronts on the highway?? Cool, I'm gonna do the same. At 50psi, the single 9's that I have in front still look pretty squashed!! It would seem that the more weight the center could carry, the better, as that's where all the rubber is. My truck eats the pass...

Sweet! I have some M34 wheels that I'm in the process of painting, then I have some new 11.00's that are going on. Should look very nice!! (Thus requiring me to paint the entire deuce, I'm sure...) Wish I was having fun there too!!! C

Yup, too much air pressure leads to hopping in the sand, whether it's a deuce or a pickup. Read the dash plate, it gives good suggestions for tire pressures. I run the fronts a little higher than the rears, but you need to get them down from road pressure, so that you can see the sidewall...

Ah yes, that's what it is... You're slipping the clutch too much... Assuming you have both rear axles driving, it's not wheel hop, it's clutch chatter... You need to rev the engine a bit less, and get the clutch all the way out kinda quickly before you throttle the thing to look for the next...

Ken, you're going to remove and re-install 16 1/2" bolts, mess with gear oil, RTV/Gaskets, mess, cleanup... How in the world is that easier than pulling the four 7/16" bolts that hold on the U-joinit straps, knocking the driveshaft loose with a pry bar, and securing it up to the frame with...

I have my truck sitting on single 9.00's right now on stock wheels while it waits for me to mount up the 11.00's on M34/135 wheels... The bed looks really wide, but the truck looks OK otherwise. I think the M34 wheels look a little better with the additional offset, but it doesn't do much...

Um, in order for fuel to come out, air has to get in... fuel isn't going to come from the tank, as it's lower... The bottom of the filter is most likely higher than the fuel level in the tank, so the fuel gets pulled back by the weight of fuel in the lines below it... (siphons from the filter...

I think the wheels are Hutchinson units. I got them off e-bay a while ago, and painted them OD. I think border patrol was running them on some of the Chevy's and Fords that they had... They're heavy duty for sure, and we took one apart to see if we could get the tires off... I have no...

So with a test drive complete, (To the car wash, in front wheel drive as I still don't have a rear driveshaft!) it's time to start some body work... Step one, get the box up and away from the cab so I can fix the cab corners... The bolts come right off with a little heat from a mapp gas...

My intention is to make the truck a little nicer to drive around, and use as a really capable pickup. There were no A1/A2/A3 versions as far as I know, but this will be some sort of attempt to create what I think one might have been... I'm planning 33's on some Hutchinson wheels I have, a little...

Well, I love a good buildup, so I figure I'd post some pics and words on my fall M1008 buildup... I bought two M1008's last summer, and painted up and sold the green one last fall. The tan truck had a blown trans, but started and ran good, and had less rust. (It's also missing the rear prop, as...

Not sure if it'll fit in a blazer or not, but I mounted mine to the inner box side on my last truck, above the wheel well. Used the 4xRack mount kit. Could get to the lower bolts from below the bed, used self tappers and then nut-serts on the uppers. Keeps it high in the truck, and tucked off to...

Oh what fun!!! I think the snow levels you're talking about are relatively low, and not more than 2' deep, so you can find the bottom... My suggestions, based on having my deuce this winter at our UP winter test track to do extractions and for fun: 1. Get rid of the duals. They are NOT going...

So a lot of you don't throttle your deuces when you crank them? And they start anyway? I don't know how mine would start with no throttle, but it rips right off with a light pedal. I come off the feed right after it starts, let it run 6-700RPM until the oi pressure comes up. If I don't...

OMG, you guys are CRAZY!! Go find any old junkyard, and use a screwdriver and get one yourself for like $2 or something... Just to be clear, are we talking about the black with white letters PRND21 plastic thingy, or the little orange pointer?? I broke the spare pointer I had, but I have...

I'll add that if your run in mud a lot, the drums require a LOT of maintenance... Mud eats the shoes right off in no time. Or that was my experience from wheeling in college... I suppose also, one pinion brake vs. two drums is a lot less troublesome. And since the deuce hub seals...