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I think we have someone in your neck of the woods that sell tires from time to time............... I haven't had enough coffee yet to remember who! BUT, I do remember he's north east of Dallas....... maybe............ but not Texarkana.............

The industry may call it a "mud ring or mud lip", if you compare a 5590745 beside a 19832 you will see the difference. My hat is off to you, you apparently have tools and are not afraid to use them. You get to try a second time, no big deal, all of us have had to revisit a repair 1 or 2...

Were the shafts under the seal in good shape??? The OEM seals have two lips on them that had collected water and corroded two shafts on one of my trucks. These can be repaired (and I use that term lightly) with a speedy sleeve. But be advised, this spot with the corrosion "might" develop into a...

The correct tool also helps with tie rods. Hint "it's not a pipe wrench" . They actually make a tire rod wrench that hooks into the split in the end of the tie rod helping to "open" it as pressure is applied. They are not too expensive for occasional use quality. Just my 2 cents.

Unless you had a vibration from it , it's probably still good. It's not uncommon for them to have movement from the rubber bushing. You should see what one of these look like in a class 8 truck. Think dinner plate.

Was there play in the bearing itself or the rubber around the outside of the metal bearing? Thats also called a "carrier" bearing in most places. I also have to go and move my chair into the corner and make sure the coffee is warmed up. I have a feeling I'll be spending some time there!

Haven't laid them out side by side but the TS piece eyeballs to be near identical to the two I have. About $100 in the store if I remember......

Check your local "tractor supply" back in the tractor parts area.....................

On behalf of my grandsons 1123.

My opinion , based on my experience, you need to tear down the entire system, tank out, replace the pickup sock if necessary, pressure wash the inside of the tank, new fuel lines and return lines, make sure the mechanical pump is pushing fuel, "remove" the stock fuel filter housing and clean...

4 wheels on the ground.

Place your jack "under" the lower a arm, loosen the bolts holding the a arm mounting bracket. Once they are "loosened" raise the lower a arm, this will unload the upper a arm and if you have the newer style shims they will slide out the top. If you have the holes only the bracket has to come...

Had to replace both vinyl covered brake cables on the back of the '95 , just saying................. the c clips up on the body end are fun also!

I might add.......... you need an air or battery impact wrench(beg, rent, buy). Loosen the nut and then spin the daylights out of the bolt first one way and then the other a couple of times. This will loosen/pulverise the corrosion and make the "drifting" the bolt out MUCH easier. I see you are...

THERE YOU GO...... It will not get any better than this!

Don't forget the pics when you get it in. And there are several things on these when they break, well, you will be just fine with one kidney.

After thinking for a minute (something I don't regularly do) I believe the model truck you have has the vent system plumbed differently from the earlier trucks. The pump vent may go to the tank ......maybe. Just the same if the diaphragm is compromised fuel coming out the vent fitting is a sure...

If you had air escaping from the mechanical pump on the side of the engine it's my guess that you have a ruptured diaphragm in the pump. I would disconnect the vent line as to not get fuel in the vent system as you trouble shoot he fuel system. Fuel escaping the vent fitting equals a pump...

Doesn't look legit to me............

Had to fabricate a bracket for the solenoids, and took an angle grinder to the lower edge of the mount where the cable comes through in case it bound up and drug across the edge. Hope this helps.