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A little splanin on the custom made thing please. Who, What pieces, Where......... Thanks

If he does lock rings he probably will do anything!!!

The "grease" they are talking about is to hold the push rod in place while the pump is installed. I personally leave the plate on the block if there is no oil leakage and use a strip of flexible plastic to allow the pump arm to slide under the push rod . Works for me. The grease method works...

No No No .......... Getting the tire shop to change them!

Bu cutting your strap off so there is just enough to complete the loop and "lock" itself when it is ratcheted it gives you more room on the ratchet to pull it up further. Just my 2 cents.

Let us know how that goes.........................................

After reading through this I think a small step has been omitted. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong! You need to get the pump "push rod" in a fully retracted position, maybe you saw that in your read through of the info available here? A wrench on the back of the crank balancer can rotate...

As ACTION pointed out to me recently the later trucks actually do something to this effect. I plan to cheat the process a little and rout my 9 and 11 series trucks vents up behind the air intake where the system is currently vented. It's my humble opinion that is one of the few improvements...

YUP, the mechanical pump can do it by itself if the diaphragm leaks. Guess how I know!

Time to drop the oil pan and have a lookie see.

Removing the small cover at the nose of the starter I think will provide all the bad news you seek. Starter spins but doesn't engage, starter comes out. Missing teeth on the flywheel, flywheel comes out. Flex plate actually, before someone corrects me.

If the truck is "new to you" I would replace it initially then wash it out, not "brush" it out as long as it looks ok or for a couple more changes, Its the water seperator. Fuel will pass thru and the water should accumulate in the bottom of the filter. Drain it regularly into a clear container...

There is a good possibility the nose of your rivet tool of choice will not fit snugly against the turnbutton....... stack a few small washers on top of the revit before placing it in the tool. Works for me, my two cents.

The thin cutting board sheet of plastic that you sneak out of your wife's kitchen cut into a narrow strip works better than a cloth. Rotate the engine with a large wrench at the back of the damper with your finger on the pump rod at the same time, easy to do. Rod up, plastic strip under it...

NOW.........................Please explain your method of setting the thrust angle......................Inquiring minds want to know??? Me, I'm just curious.

Have you removed the fuel filter housing from the firewall, cleaned and replaced the filter and water separator????

A: Concordia was in reference to your tires. From time to time I've seen hundreds of them stacked outside. B: They don't make them any better than Steve. My 2 cents.

Know where Concordia KS is at? Do an bay search..... A one day road trip from you. Eye ball before you buy. My 2 cents.

Pull the plug where it goes into the case and look for fluid.....dry=good....wet=bad.... my 2 cents

Google "Plan B Supply"