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I have seen several vehicles with dot 3 and dot 5 mixed. I can not vouch for the sludge formation. I can't say that it can't happen, however I've seen mixes go for years with no issues of any kind. I've also seen more than once where mixing of any proportion means that you must go by the wet...

Technically yes, it's accessable with the knuckle on. Realistically, you still need the axle shaft out, you're two minutes away from having the knuckle off anyway. IMO it's not worth the headache of leaving it on at that point. Then you could use the one piece knuckle boots as well.

I did that route. I needed the wrench. I found the wrench. Like a dumbarse with a massive case of OD feaver and tires that needed attention, I immediately bought the wrench. Then after it came I figured out I needed adapters and I paid WAY more than I had to to get them. Little ouch. Then...

It looks like I may have jumped the gun telling you all about the kit. It wasn't suggesting the whole "power wrench" kit, just the two pieces kit, but I can't find it there any more. Both parts are still very much avialable individually as a repair part however, you can get them from anybody...

I got them from tooldiscounter.com For every action, there's an equal and opposite reaction. So for a gear reduction wrench to work, something has to hold it (or a portion of it) from counter-rotating when you turn the bar. On a rear wheel (as is explained in the link to PS magazine) the...

Ken Tool number TR52 is a square adapter that will allow you to use the gear wrench and the reaction bar just as you would for a front wheel. Mine came in a kit with TR55 as well. http://www.kentool.com/catalogs/KTCatalog_Wrenches.pdf

I know it contradicts several other very respected members here, but I would agree, I also like the way it acts much better with the rear rear driving. Question: Why both axle shafts? Just because, or is there a mechanical reason that I am overlooking?

You've got my attention. Without making commitments at this obviously early stage of the game, if it's priced right, works better, and looks "right" from a few feet away then I'm interrested. Mine has no current failures, but it does show some signs that it won't last forever.

If you're sure that you want one, then before you switch, send out one of the relatively inexpensive NAPA oil analysis kits. Several is better, but it'll show with just one. Do it just before an oil change. Then throw in the K&N. When the kit comes back, that's your baseline. Then, do it...

Mine has done that more than once. It hasn't blown up yet. I'm not trying to rule out your judgement, but my experience leads me to believe that the only thing this could do is "hurry along" a failure that is already in progress. I don't think this created any failures in and of it's self...

Not yet for sure but I'm working on it. I figure at the rate I'm going, by the time I get to that point, there'll be another twenty years of sediment in the radiator and I'll have to start all over again.:wink:

I've had suprisingly good results, first with the pipe plugs, second with that sending unit, by "cracking" them when the engine is fully up to temperature. Warm it up, crack them open until you just see the first drip of coolant, then STOP TURNING, come back when it's cool and go about whatever...

I think torque spec's for the head bolts specify engine oil. Absolutely nothing should be applied to the threads until the head is set in place. Oil or other lubricants will prevent the head gasket from getting the proper "traction" on it's mating surfaces. I'm a little sketchy on using...

If your driver's license allows you to drive specific vehicles. If the state of Washington decided to give up the federal money and write their own rules, and allowed you to drive a semi tractor with three tank trailers full of nitroglycerine on just a plain old drivers license, then that...

There's a manual in the TM section, TEA Pamphlet 55-22, Lifting Handbook for Marine Movements. It doesn't say in particular exactly why (although I suppose the obvious answer would be an unacceptable failure rate), but it definately shows that they didn't trust certain particular lifting...

So, I'm moving my deuce stuff into the back of the deuce so I'll have a little room in the basement this winter. I was so good. I got out three times to check each time I backed the deuce up to the hill to make sure it was just where I wanted it. But I was taking stuff around the house with...

The way you said this leaves me wondering, was the pedal better before? The reason I ask is that replacing the brake fluid should NOT change the pedal feel in any way. If the pedal was up before you started bleeding, but is down now, it's not an adjustment issue in any way. It's air or it's a...

GL pics can make it look like nothing's been smashed with a forklift when it has, maybe they can make it look like parts are missing when they're not. But it sure looks like the air filter housing outlet tube is a dead end... Here's my attempt to duplicate that photo on a turbo engine.

Remove the flare nut, insert an appropriately sized flat headed nail into the fitting or the line as appropriate, and re-install the line. It's got me home with more than one rotten old pickup, which probably use much higher PSIs in the brake hydraulic system. Or better, instead of plugging...