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Iraqi gold!

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My M1009 with the soft top is over at my shop. I'll look at it next time I am there to see what you mean. Can you post a photo of the screw location? I bought my topper about 2 years ago, so maybe they changed the design slightly. They had just released the item into production a month or so...

Ditto, I don't recall drilling any holes when I installed mine. One other mod you may want to try is to remove the stitching on the "softtopper.com" labels. They come off easy enough and for the price paid I don't think they should get free advertising. Besides, the stupid labels really detract...

So...did you buy it?

Nice looking trucks. I really like the setup with the gooseneck trailer.

If it is just the inner fender, replace it and reuse the existing battery trays. You might not have the added support built in to the fender, but it will work fine.

I kind of like the look of the tan bezel....cool! I'll see about coming by in person later in the week.

Are you sure it is engine oil. I had a front diff output seal go bad before and it looked like a major oil leak.

The 24v resistor block is part number 65158. I may have bought the last one available in the free world back in April of this year. Sorry, its not for sale. My AC blower motor is doing the same thing and I need to tear it down to repair. On a side note, you can get new Evap motors built from...

Yea, thats right. The right pic is of a wrench that helps turn the pump. A long pry bar on the back side ( on injector outlets ) will also work. Be gentle, it shouldn't take too much pressure to rotate it a little it once the mounting bolts are loose. Make sure you mark the existing location so...

Get some cheap wrenches and a torch. There is a set you can buy, but its pricey. I made a set when I had to advance the pump on my suburban. You can look at photos online to get an idea of the bends and angles required.

While a mod moving to an "admin" may not be the right move, I think the suggestion of an alternate admin or admins is a good idea. There are many savy SS users that could handle such a task, myself being one of them. Not that I want the job, but if called upon I would provide whatever assistance...

How about a nice iphone or evo to take take pics and keep us updated during the week? Sounds like a fun trip. Enjoy it.... Make it two weeks if you can!

Per the LO, the truck uses GO 80/90 with no additive. I believe the AC has R12 from the factory. I had my truck converted to R134A. The standard CUCV TMs cover this model CUCV. However, there are a few items which the TMs wont help you with, such as fixing the inverter circuit for the 12v...

You must leave the master light switch OFF when the truck is not in use. There is a relay under the dash for the rear ambulance body black out lights. This relay is "HOT" when the master light switch is on regardless of ignition. It will drain your front battery in no time.

Impressive. Nice work.

Of the numerous CUCVs I own, at least three have window sealant AND the rubber seal you speak of.

I used a removal disk that attaches to a drill advertised for rust and paint removal.

At 35mph only when braking or always? If when braking, turn your rotors.