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Power Service BIO KLEEN, a little goes a long way. I mix it with anti gel and diesel in a 2.5 gal jug and splash it before a trip to the pump. Don't ask how much, I have to break out the calculator or have my kid (math major) do the math. My suspicion is the translucent nature of the tank...
I do not see the "sock" on the end of the pickup tube. Is it visible to you???? It should look whiteish...... You should be able to see the bottom of the tank with fuel in it if it's clean.........Anything other than diesel and maybe a small amount of water is all that should be visible. Cloudy...
You are going to be amazed at what you find in the tank. The two cannon plugs above the "frame" over the driveshaft is the hardest part of removal in my experience, chews up old hands. Also if you are new to diesels I have two words for you"BIO KLEEN" . Gasket kit for the top plate and a new...
Maybe.......... had one leaking from the edge as you describe, but ran OK. Had the fuel tank off one TWICE and the second truck once. Both were nasty. I'm holding my breath!
My guess now........ messy fuel tank, not a pump. The "butter fly" valves can break in them but do not have the symptoms you describe. Less trouble to pull the fuel sender and eyeball the tank than replace a pump. Just my 2 cents. Please post a picture of the inside of your tank.
Pull the vent hose off the top of the mech. pump and crank/run the engine, your answer is in what does or doesn't squirt out the vent tube on the top of the pump.
Do not try this... put a can of CLEAN fuel in the passenger foot well, run a hose to the mech. pump, carefully tied up so as to not get into the tire. If the truck runs good your problem is south of the pump, if not bad lift pump or injection pump. In my opinion the filter housing needs to be...
OK , you need the seal, 6 bolts and special washers. Do not reuse the bolts on the inboard side. Order from one of the industry source 's the bolts, washers and seal. If the mating surface on the shaft is pitied or corroded you can correct that with a speedy sleeve (SKF 99199) . Its a pain to...
Not only do you set the toe on the rear but the "thrust angle" has to be set. The thrust angle just "points" the rear wheels centered with the chassis.
The sting will work but not too precise. Instead......... fabricate a short piece of square aluminum tubing to set into the wheel not touching...
I can't help myself.......... they need to be cleaned.......... a 1& 1/2 inch spade bit in an air powered drill will clean them up nicely....................................
Not bad at all. I've seen mine MUCH worse. If you are new to diesels the fuel has some surprises for you, like "stuff" growing in it. Where you live an anti gel additive will be necessary in the winter. The biological stuff can accumulate in the bottom of the filter bowel and cause problems...
Try a "tie rod wrench" that looks like a funky letter C. It works in the split at the end of the rod. OTC makes a decent set. I'm not a fan of the "pipe wrench" types.
I would suggest that you also check your transfer case linkage. Just because it says H on top doesn't guarantee its in H in the case. BUT HL should kinda show its self on any pavement. Doesn't hurt to look though. My 2 cents.
First thing I would do is put an eyeball in the fuel tank an see if something is floating around in the fuel.........i9f not start changing the filters..... my 2 cents...
YUP, not a big difference at all. The 5 gear planetaries is the big thing on the 85e. The GTP trans. all have most of the heavier pieces already. BUT, since you have saved me so much money in the past I now have money to spend on the next truck. The 1123, 99.5% stock is gifted to the 4 year old...
I happened upon this information while trying to determine which 1097's that were overhauled in TX got 4l85's but hit a dead end. Some people with 1097's night have trucks with 4l85's but no way to tell without opening it up. FYI