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The replacement lift pump will have a gasket. However, you'll also need the mounting plate gasket which is the same from a small block chevy. Ditto on the 1/4" ratchet....WITH a swivel and a long extension.
There is one PS bracket bolt you need to remove completely. Slip it over all the way to the inside, then work it out on the pulleys.
When re tightening the PS bracket, use a pry bar from underneath and have someone up top snug the bolts. The pry location from up top will not give you a good fit...
As an update to this thread, I'd like to point out that if your check valve is clogging then there is a good chance the seals in your injection pump are going bad. It was only a few days after I installed the "cleared" check valve that my injection pump started to leak. I ended up having the...
I'm sure if you look hard enough you can find one. Aboonski may have one. I recall he was going to install one into a new replacement filter base not realizing it wasn't needed. Send him a PM. I'm sure he'd sell it if he has it still. He wont need it with the new filter base on his truck.
You can replace the whole filter base and be done with it. The replacement bases do not come with the pressure switch as it is not needed. The pressure switch only provides functionality if your using the STE-ICE test kit for checking out your CUCV.
Some guys have also had good luck just...
One more post on this topic. You will find useful information here:
How to remove air from the fuel system and/or find an air/fuel leak on a 6.2L - Diesel Place
in regards to finding fuel/air leaks. Good luck!
The problem can also be caused by a small air leak. If you pressurize the fuel system slightly, you may be able to see the leak if there is one. The line from the tank to the lift pump is usually under vacuum and leaks are not readily seen. If there is one ( a leak ), the fuel will drain back to...
Could be the check valve in the lift pump. Also, check to make sure the return line check valve is not stuck open.
If the lift pump check valve isn't working, you'll need to replace the lift pump.
I had the same problem on my M1009 daily driver. I installed an electric fuel pump and new fuel...
There is a guy in south Florida that has done the conversion you speak of. Removed one axle and left it stock length. A friend of mine knows the guy well and is planning to do the same with his truck. I'll try and get some photos.
Seriously? Go find yourself an old car or pickup truck..not a deuce. If you set on buying from GL, get a M1009 and work your way up. The logistics of owning a deuce are not always obvious until you have one. Finding a parking spot can always be tricky.
Per the form: HSMV 83045 (REV. 09/09)
"Application for Registration of a Street Rod, Custom Vehicle,
Horseless Carriage or Antique (Permanent)"
The fee for a firefighting apparatus/military vehicle 30 years old or older is $56.60 (add an additional $10, if the GVW weight is 10,000 lbs. or...
If your leaking fuel out the valley ( rear of engine ), then your IP seals are toast.
In which case, the return line check valve is most likely clogged.
Take the fitting off and clean it real good. Reinstall, but it may clog again.
You could buy a hose bib fitting to replace the check valve...
You most certainly could! Being a M1028 ( without a shelter ), you don't need the additional power the setup was supposed to provide. Go for it! For that matter, some might recommend you abandon 24v completely.
You mentioned replacing the DUVAC?
If you have the 24v Leece alternators and the duvac setup in your truck, I would bet the issues lie in the charging system and not the battery. Search on "duvac" and you will find a few threads discussing this topic. Good luck! Maybe add a photo or two so we...
Did you end up solving your problem? Quite a few of the original posters didn't read your issue correctly. Frankieg wants to replace the hose that goes from the metal fuel line on the frame to the LIFT pump, not the injection pump. It is a rubber prebent(molded) hose.
I have been trying to...
You guys make a compelling argument against the cheap splice connectors. I suppose some properly placed heat shrink tubing and/or liquid electrical tape will help mitigate any water infiltration. I think I have some heat shrink tubing large enough to slide over the whole assembly.
In a perfect...
I've said it before and I'll say it again:
For civilian trailer connectors, I just use the blue trailer splice connectors. There are two wiring harnesses that connect to the military trailer plug. On the vehicle side harness, behind the bumper is where I connect. One harness has the black...