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Perhaps...and a cheap preventative measure so might as well. If I ever have to remove the pump and reinstall, I'll use a 90 on the outlet so the hose will attached downward from the frame rail to the pump. These pumps use flared fittings, so it requires a flared to NPT coupler. Then at least a...
If your mechanical gauge reads the same, drop your oil pan and check the sump and the pump. You might be able to replace the oil pump to resolve the issue.
Same here, happens on random google searches when clicking the 2nd or 3rd result. I thought it was Malware at first, but I am suspecting they are either in league with Google or it is a DNS hijack at the ISP level. I've had wireshark running for the past 24 hours to catch it so I can diagnose...
Don't convert to 12v! You wont be able to slave start your deuce(s).....
If you havent done the Doghead relay mod - do it! Its the first thing I do to all my CUCVs. I've heard too many horror stories about what happens when it goes bad.
You want an Airtex E3158. When looking for an electric pump on my M1009, I sourced one that was for an '88 P30 Van with a 6.2L engine. I installed it this past weekend and it solved many problems I was having with my mechanical pump. I ran a new 3/8 rubber line to my fuel filter inlet, bypassing...
I'm not going to make it this year. For me, its mostly the cold! I don't like it. I had thought about day tripping, but my camo M1009 has a fuel issue that I need to diagnose.
I hope everyone has a great time and most of all - STAY WARM!
Under the dash on the driver side ( on side not firewall ) there is a small ground block with 6 or 8 spades. For 12v power, use the block on the firewall under the hood, just to the left of the glow plug relay setup. For 12v ignition controlled, there are empty spades in your fuse block under...
The output of each alt is wired to the 24v bus bar. Only the IGN was jumped to supply a "field" to the top alternator. What do you do for a living? Something electrical I presume.
Battery disconnect procedures should remain the same for all CUCVs regardless of the 12/24 setup. The AL NG...
I was specifically referring to your opinion on the two alts wired in parallel, not the whole setup. :)
I removed all the wiring and components that went to the original duvac setup. So that brown wire is history.
I did wire the top alternator exactly like the bottom with the IGN of both...
Keith ( since your clearly an electrical guy ) - what are your thoughts on my setup with both Leece alternators wired to the 24v bus?
This is one area of my setup I am still unsure about. I've read some stuff that suggests the two alternators working together may do more harm to each other...
My batteries may be slightly low as it was just recently "I left the lights on" and slave started the truck. It was the rear fluorescent that was left on.
I drove her around that day, parked it and drove it again 2 days ago. I may not have given the system enough time to come fully up. I...
What do you mean 50% charged? I've never seen more than 12v being output from the unit. If the unit is supplying the 12v side power, there is no need to charge the front battery. The front and rear battery get charged together from the Leece Alternator at 28.5v
Remember, the unit works whether...
By the way, there is a little led that lights up when the unit is "on".
This and the physically hot relay ( next to starter relay ) led me to the conclusion that the master light switch needs to stay off when the truck is not in use. Otherwise, you will have a parasitic drain on the 12v system.
The unit does not charge the battery at 14.2v. It only outputs 100amps of 12v when a current draw is detected.
The truck has not been started for 2 days, both batteries are at 12.3v as of 5 minutes ago.
Keith - it will activate whether the truck is running or not. So no, it is not alternator sensed. It should cut out if the 24v voltage drops below a certain threshold; however, what point that is I do not know. None of the documentation I have specifies this, but it does claim to have low/high...
Please re-read my post. It is NOT ignition controlled. There are only three connections: 12v, 24v, and ground. It senses 12v draw and activates when detected.
The pdf linked above shows typical wiring connections. I wired mine as shown in the "typical equalizer application".
The 52210 is expensive, but it is also probably overkill. The 52208 or 52206 may be sufficient. I recall reading somewhere that the original setup only supplied 70amps of 12v power.
I bought my unit from these guys:
ASE Supply Outlet Store
I have seen the 08 model on ebay before for under...