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If you upgrade to the smart start system (S3) that'll stop.

The wire placement diagrams in the TM are quite detailed. But the only thing I'm curious about is the same wire having two labels in two different chapters on the TM- '3D' vs '3C'. 4-77 lists '3C' as STE/ICE-R lead, while 4-8 gives no identification to wire '3D'. When I was doing the starter...

...a typo perhaps? There isn't another wire labelled '3D' in those diagrams so it's got me wondering.

Question about the starter wiring IAW the TM. TM 9-2320-280-20-2, section 4-8 'Starter Replacement' labels wire #20 in the diagram as '3D' in both removal and installation diagrams. My wire is physically tagged '3C' so I was kind-of scratching my head. Now, in the same TM, only section 4-77...

Ah, sky net! Humvees becoming self aware so they can destroy humanity! LoL

The three wires are tagged 11A, 14A, and 29A. The diagram in the TM shows 11A at the top, 29A OB, and 14A IB.

Yup. No matter how well you wrap with electrical tape it will always eventually dry up and come apart, exposing the bare wires to moisture and corrosion. I would suggest finding any taped splices you have and installing proper crimped connectors sealed with heat shrink.

Ok, so I installed the new batteries an did some voltage tests to hopefully locate the open circuit. 24.7v at the pos stud on both sides of the bulkhead as well as both ends of the shunt and neg stud. It would appear that the juice from the batteries stops at the starter. For fun I also took...

The lower mirror is intended to give a view of the lower/rear of the vehicle for situational awareness while backing. That said, they are definitely side specific as TedG has pointed out.

What I get from what you're saying about the breakers is that they're self-setting? I'll pull and inspect them and do a continuity test either way because there's not much left to check at this point. An answer to a previous question- I have no lights. No power whatsoever with batteries hooked...

I've got a pair of new batteries to put in and i'm just waiting for the new S3 at this point. Out of curiosity how are the curcuit breakers reset?

I had serious issues with the date listed on the title being different from the vehicle's actual mfr date while importing the truck into Canada. Mine is a '99 auction ex-Marine humvee built in '85 but the title stated 2000 as the vehicle year of mfr, i'm guessing because that was the year it...

The batteries that are in the truck now are the same ones that were in it when i purchased it nearly 3 years ago. They looked fairly new then and they tested fine so i opted not to replace them. At this point i will install a pair of new ones, and once the S3 is either fixed or replaced the...

Ok so here's a new development. I put the old (non-S3) box back in and the truck started no problem. A few days later I tried to start it again but the wait light just blinked so I left it. When I put power on today all I got was needle in the red and the relay or whatever it is inside the box...

Re. my previous post i find myself in the market yet again for a new S3 box if anyone has a good line on one. The supplier i purchased the now dead box from states electronic parts do not come with a replacement warranty.

Keep in mind for this and most other military vehicles is they're 24 volt systems and you won't find these parts at the local auto parts stores.

It's a ribbed black box mounted up in behind the ignition switch area. It's marked 'flasher directional signal' so there's no mystery about if you've found the right one. Before you swap out the box make sure you check the cannon plug for corrosion as well as all of the grounds you can find.

I had the same problem except mine was stuck in 3rd gear. I would suggest dropping the pan and looking for a layer of sludge that may be the remains of the other gears, as was my case. If it looks ok I'd try flushing, new filter, and maybe even switching to a high quality synthetic.

Mystery solved. While scouring this site as well as the G it was mentioned more than once that the new S3's were prone to failure. So working on that bit of info I pulled my new (only a few months old) S3 and replaced it with the old box that was in my truck when I got it- and boom, she fired...

The half-shafts are very easy to replace. The TM is quite detailed in the process including complete tear-down and rebuild to facilitate boot replacement. The rear shafts require the brake linkage to be unhooked first so it's also a good opportunity to properly rig the park brake.