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I have been using Amsoil synthetic and it works great. Only now my truck drips way more than it used to. The mess of drip spots it leaves behind everywhere i park and added expense of having to top-up on a regular basis is pushing me towards going back to the less expensive dino.
On my truck one of the welds on the exhaust crossover pipe shield had cracked through and it made a **** of a racket when it vibrated. As always with my truck it wasn't obvious and I had a **** of a time finding the source of the noise.
No foil on this harness. The vendor said he will check to see if he has the right one in stock and if so will replace it. The TM covers both the 6.2 and 6.5 in the harness removal and installation guide and this harness has completely different wires and connectors that aren't illustrated, and...
Ya, I've already emailed the seller and I'm just waiting to hear back. You're right, these are not cheap. Especially when you factor in the horrible conversion rate and equally horrible shipping costs.
I'm swapping out my harness and bought a new one online. Compared NSN and p/n's and all was good. New one came in the mail with same NSN and p/n on the bag except it's not the same as either the one in my truck or the diagram in the TM. The one in my truck is an exact match to the TM. The new...
Looking at the dash pics there's a couple of added switches. I'm assuming the one on the left is for the spot lamp and the one closest to the steering wheel is probably for IR lights that i can't see in the pic of the front because it's too dark. The heater knob looks like a transplanted hand...
It's definitely a humvee and not an transformed H1 for sure. The pioneer tool rack in the rear is normal equipment. These things can have all sorts of added bells and whistles added so the spot light isn't unusual as long as they're mil issue 24 volt. It's hard to tell with the tail lights...
Power problem finally solved. I traced the open circuit to cable 81A which is the pos cable coming from the starter to the S3 connector in the engine compartment. Turns out 81A was actually corroded inside the cannon plug itself. Following the wiring diagram I was chasing the power with my...
I recall that thread on the G as well and i believe there was reference to someone actually having such a list. It was suggested that it be posted for all to see but i don't believe it ever was.
CARNAC has since pulled the plug on this one, unfortunately. Current rhetoric is that the Army and Marine vehicles have separate info databases. I wonder if there is a list somewhere of the s/n's that were caught in the 1999 Barstow auction?
This topic came up in the past on here and the G but the threads just seem to dead-end. That said, i will bring the question forward once again and see where it leads this time.
Is there a way to research the unit, or even the base history of the truck based solely on the s/n? A database (mil...
It's an off the shelf Turbo 400 transmission that's been around since Christ was a corporal, so any transmission shop or auto parts store should have what you need. Same with oil filters. I would recommend draining and thoroughly flushing every fluid on the truck and switching to synthetic...
Indeed, there should be power at the lights regardless of the position if the ignition switch, but In my truck's case there isn't. I just swapped out the light switch to test your theory but it didn't change anything, unfortunately. What other ideas do you have?
Still having the zero power issue. No lights and the gauge needle doesn't even flicker. I have traced the voltage all the way from the batteries to the ignition switch thus far- 24.7v is getting to the the switch. 24.7 at the run, and 24.7 when I spring it to the start position. I can hear...