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I have used these http://www.thermocube.com/ for years with my diesel tractors. There is a more advanced option now also http://thepowerbadger.com/

I usually go with what the old timers around these parts call "carburetor soup." Either some baking soda or some acid (lemon juice, distilled vinegar) and water. One may work slightly better than the other depending on what metals are involved. Put the disassembled carb or other nasty...

Most shops can make up new U-bolts for you as well. Well worth it if your freshening everything else.

Well, a 1/8 to 1/8 male union is available. https://www.dixonvalve.com/product/1720202C You could then adapt from there. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Dixon Valve part number 1740404C. Male NPSM to Female NPTF. NPSM = National Pipe Straight Mechanical formerly known as NPS. NPTF = National Pipe Thread Fuel and is compatible with NPT.

Joseph Lucas, actually. Generally referred to as the Prince of Darkness when some Lucas made auto lighting showed up in the US. Somewhat unfair to the man as he died in 1903 and was in the business of manufacturing oil lamps for bicycles at the time. Also, Prestolite did buy a piece of...

Yes, ballast resistor is the same as primary circuit resistor. It is in a series circuit with the primary side of the coil. The purpose is to control the amount of current flowing through the coil. The coils were not designed for the full 24 volt supply, so an external part was added...

You can test it with a digital multimeter, measuring across the posts I would expect a value in the neighborhood of 1.5 ohms could be a bit more or less. 0 ohms would be a dead short and getting no reading would indicate that its an open circuit like the one you were having issues with.

If the ballast resistor is open there will be no power to the ignition coil. If someone knows the value (ohms) for the resistor we can likely locate a modern replacement that's more readily available.

My day job is avionics and flight control systems. We get into things with 100+ pins and mixed layouts with big and little pins. A flight control box can have 12-15 connectors and more that 1000 pins between them. The connectors that are ordered with pre=pinned inserts will have solder...

The mystery of connector backshells Sorry about delaying your beauty rest. Selecting the back shells is whole exercise in and of itself. Some of the industrial grade connectors do come with back shells. The military stuff just has too many options and needs its own decoder rings and...

AS an example that's a MIL-5015-DTL Matrix series. MS -> Military 3450 -> a wall mount shell W -> aluminum cadmium olive drab 18 -> shell size 18 18-11 -> pin layout (5 pins) P -> the contacts are male pins A possible mate would be a 3456 plug style shell. The strain relief I'll leave as...

Secret decoder ring Unfortunately there are far too many variations for a simple list. Here's a link to Amphenol's secret decoder ring. It will get you started on the MS numbers, shell sizes, pin layouts, and how to decode the part numbers...

For mechanical gauges, I like Hewitt Industries. They look the part and are available with 24v illumination as well. Their prices are pretty reasonable.

I used H4 conversion housings. One point remember is to buy ones with the DOT marking and US beam pattern, a lot of the ones that are floating around have the Euro beam pattern. I figure the DOT label may reduce future hassles. It is a requirement although rarely checked.

First, check the voltage at the gauge and make sure that the connection is good and clean. The VDO 332-902 is a pretty good match for an analog gauge. Wema makes a nice 2-1/16 digital gauge, IEVR-BB-8-32.

Also, if you want 120/240V for the last house on the line/street/road, you have to set the voltage high enough to account for the loses. The first house may indeed see 125V+ and the last house may be down at 117V. If you watch the voltage over the day, it will tend to be highest late night...

I picked up a set of the cylinders. I haven't found that 8th day of the week yet to work on the metal fab yet.

One thing to check is to try jumping the solenoid directly. One of the frequently undiagnosed starter problems is that the start wire doesn't fully power the solenoid. If it cranks when you jump it, then the start circuit isn't supplying enough power to fully energize the solenoid. That can...

The other must have for these things is glue lined, marine, heat shrink tubing. It's lined with hot melt glue. It provides reinforcement for the joint and the glue also seals up imperfections fabulously.