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One of the better videos of the subject of splicing. Some very good tips on splicing. At about the 08:00 mark, he shows using an un-insulated butt splice as reinforcement for a solder joint. I like this method for solid core wire particularly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoD2aUvnQXg

Hello from Vestal, NY and welcome aboard. My mother's family was from your vicinity.

The things that actually dissolve carbon would also dissolve the injectors. As rustystud said, all the good stuff is gone, carbon tetra-chloride or 1,1,1 thrichloroethane (TCE). The best you can hope for in removing carbon deposits is to dissolve the oily, gluey, stuff that holds it together...

The spec was cancelled in 1999. Fundamentally it's mineral spirits. It was replaced by MIL-PRF-680, MIL-PRF-680C being the current version.

Welcome from Vestal NY.

Weight will be a big factor. 6v53N @ 1485 lbs and 8v71N @ 2306lbs. 6v53 were in all manner of firetrucks, "city" tractors, and boats. No shortage of them around. 8v71N were actually the ones the truckers called 318's. The original naturally aspirated spec was 318 horsepower.

I see what appears to be one damaged wire in the photos. Probably not the source of sparks but, if there's one, there's more.

The simple single color led strips are dimmed by PWM (Pulse Width Modulation). Ultimately that simply means turning it on and off very fast. The dimming is accomplished by varying the percentage of on time vs off time. The omnivolt type lamps use a constant current driver. For high output...

The source of gauges is mostly a matter of preference. I went with Hewitt Industries http://www.hewittindustries.com/. They will set them up to your preferences and the prices are quite reasonable. They also supply them with 24v illumination upon request. The are a number of gauge...

I'm a fan of the marine battery terminal fuses. It keeps the fuse as close to the source as possible. You always have to keep in mind that the fuse is there primarily to protect the wire. Any unprotected wire is a potential short and fire starter.

In commercial 24V vehicles the solution tends to be battery equalizers. It allows you to draw more power and keeps the batteries in good balance. They tend to be 2-3 times more expensive than the converters but are available in higher amp ratings. Eaton SurePower is one of the major brands,

Yes and yes. The traditional automotive setup is to use the body and or frame as the ground. In practice that means getting a good clean connection and protecting the connection area from corrosion. A great many electrical issues in cars and trucks are caused by bad/dirty/corroded grounds...

I use bus bars from Blue Sea. Available in many configs. They're relatively cheap on Amazon. https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/18/BusBars

Wolverine Technologies has a kit for M923/M925 to put a modern Delco alternator on it. He used to have a Steel Soldiers price. Give him a call. http://www.wolverinetechnologiesllc.com/M925Alternator.html

The other route is just a starter relay and a button. Nice and simple.

For a more modernized setup you might want to consider using a glow plug timer relay. Helps prevent keeping them on too long. The associated wire size 16 or 12 is really only going to be adequate for short duration, intermittent loads.

A couple more pics from Seattle I found a couple of my old photos from 1998.

I have a 15 amp breaker in that circuit. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Remember not to get them mixed up. The 1N1204A is cathode to the case. 1N1204RA is anode to the case. Essentially they are the same part, just with the polarity reversed.

Most if not all early engines were susceptible to compressor stalls. There's a point were the rotation speed of the compressor blades causes the airfoils of the the blades to stall just like an airplane wing. It's dependent on a lot of factors but a big one is the amount of air flowing into...