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Wess I believe you can tell us the feeling you get when you see one of your tires passing you on the highway. I have never had it happen but if it did I can only think of what a 300 / 600 pound tire could do to a car / driver. I follow the manufacture instructions and just use a couple drops of...
Myself if the torque specs call for 500 I go 500 on the thimbles and maybe 470 on the outer nut. That way the thimble does not want to come off before the outer nut.
Your truck so do it the way you feel comfortable. I will bring my beam torque wrench if I come to the Ga. rally this year if we even still have it and just for smitts and giggles lets see how close to specs we can get your way. Now as for your toys yea close enough but when running commercially...
Correct around 175 /180. I set mine at 200 no more. I also just went with a 200 range oil filled gage. Made this up to do / watch the pressure rise and fall when test driving the 250's.
The quarter thing was done when the trucks were still under control of Uncle Sam and I bet the FDC's were still hooked up. They did it so they did not have to cut the safety wire on the tin cover and twin nuts and get caught increasing the fuel. Now that you own the truck I do not think you will...
Yea with my truck four way and cheater bar I would say I am close to specs. Would seem like what we are looking for is all nuts to be consistent. If we were working in a shop then bring out the correct torque wrench too cover our Donkey. Myself I like cool tools.
Yea sometimes it is the simple things we over look myself included. To LIoydb I am not trying to give you a hard time but wanting you to see it is very hard to diagnose any problem over the internet. Sometimes the Deuce is the hardest with it simple but problematic IP system. Myself I do not...
Has nothing to do with your truck but. Back in the mid 70's working in a shop on for a customer. He says the car run great when going straight but cuts out in a turn. I take it for a test drive and yep cuts out in a turn. Bring it back to the shop and start to wonder / think. Open the hood and...
Well you can start or not with the trouble shooting manual or you can skip around. You can pull / test injectors. You can do compression check. You can check fuel delivery or you can start with the trouble shooting manual and we can keep on guessing.
Yea been through two of the cheap China power grease guns and went back to the one you just squeeze your fist. Little better than the one with the long leaver handle. I had thought about buying the 120 pound drum of grease and the commercial air power unit when I had 30 trucks to do. Now I will...
Yea just have to be care full with the air operated one on the trunnion if the cap is tight / seated. If you remember Rustystud blew out his rubber thingy on the inside shaft of the trunnion using an air powered one. He replaced the whole trunnion to correct his mistake. If all is ok the rear...
Just watch over greasing the trunnion for the rears so as not to knock out the inner rubber seal thingy. Myself I would remove the cover and check bearings / bushing condition. Then per TM if I remember pump some grease into it with cap off or loose. Then cap tight pump easy not a power grease...
Knocked out the passenger side this morning. Came out ok and so much better than being painted. I did it yesterday but did not mention it. Since on each side we have to slide the front lip of the panel in first to lock it in to the sheet metal I just put one bolt in the front top hole panel...