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Either one of these two systems are only good for modest temperatures. When it gets cold, you need to put real heat on the engine to start it without damage! Lee in Alaska

I won one up here, if it ever clears Battle Creek, for $460. I have also seen them go for twice that. I have heard it said that it is hard to find them that go real cheap. It seems like a real serviceable unit.

The military stuff is just that. To use it in the civilian applications is a good idea, but it tends not to conform to modern civilian standards. For instance, its generally not fast, not powerful, and is usually very heavy. The heavy part keeps the highway payload to a minimum.

Some of those had winches. When they did, the PTO was very valuable. Have no illusions, it would take a good deal of determination and skill, not to mention money to get that running.

The thread is , National Extra Fine. Mike is right on the rest. Any heavy truck store will have the lug nuts.

If vehicle voltage is 24, coil volts should be the same, however, I use a ballast resistor. It will also work with the civilian distributer. I run a civi distributer with a 24 volt coil ( and ballast resistor) and save the military distributer and plugs for special occasions.

The early ones were!

The thing with radiators, is that they are put together with solder! You have to solder the repair spot, with out get things so hot that you unsolder adjacent areas! Where are the PICTURES? Sure, antifreeze can give you trouble with the repair.

Yeah - regardless of the wheels on a 101 trailer, it will always look small. The 105 is the one for a Deuce.

So what was the problem? It still sounds like a bad ground - a ground needs to be carried through the trailer wiring and plug connectors. Was that happening? Otherwise the circuit that you are trying to use will try to ground itself by back feeding through the elements of other bulbs, giving...

It will be impossible to move it, if there is a load on the drum, or line. That is the lever that engages the dog clutch. The jaws have to be aligned (no load), to be engaged or disengaged. In that situation, the lever should just swing back and forth. The button/knob, of course, has to be...

The M211 had dual brake cylinders for each wheel end. It was about the same size as the M35/but different manufacture and basically the same type system/air over hydraulics. It would be interesting to compare the backing plates and drum size!

When dual cylinders are used - one for each shoe, performance is increased. Trailing shoes, on single cylinder systems, just don't do much. Its the leading shoe, that tends to bite into the drum, aided by the direction of rotation, that does most of the work. Noting that: some single...

Usually a light grease works best. You don't want oil to migrate into the back of the speedo head.

Put a valve in the coolant line, so you can turn it off in the summer, when its not needed.

Well Said John!

If the in tank pump is bad/not working, it will crank a long time, before it starts, if it does at all. My problem was that the pump motor ran, but didn't pump. You can usually put a pressure gauge in the system, to see ho well it is working, or just crack the bleeders on the secondary...

He was trying to be nice - don't try to pick a fight with him. He must think your not exempt and you can drive someplace else.

Bjorn's uses the regular brake diaphragm (available at any heavy truck store). Truckie's uses the earlier stye. The heavy truck store should be able to order it from Midland or Bendix, if they still make them.

The GMC 211 series trucks had a sprague drive front end. The front axle only started pulling when the rear axles started going faster then the front (in other words - slipping), so even if you had the free wheeling hubs, things still turned in the drive line/differential. Lee in Alaska