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A2 is the same!

Vintage Powerwagon

You can take that apart and very carefully clean them. They have fine screens inside, that sometimes become plugged. Its a tedious job, but helped me learn how that stuff works. You also have to check them electrically.

You might have fried one of the over-rides. Like the low oil circuit, or the over-heat, if it has one. How do you know its the stator?

I have traveled all over and early on, got rid of the locks. I have never lost anything off the truck. I do keep a very vigilant eye on it though. But I have had considerable trouble with the locks that I used to lock stuff up with. They seem to require exactly the right key, and they don't...

A fuel tank (and batteries), need to be vented REAL good.

The whole process described above is about true. If you manage properly, you will be able to secure a title with only a mile care of heartburn!

I never mastered that carb. I carried an extra under the seat. Once coming back from a routine 350 mile trip, it took me two days to make it. It would idle, but no power at higher RPM's. So I started taking parts, one at a time, out of the extra carb, and putting them in the one on the...

Regardless of make, a 3/4" impact will seldom remove lug nuts predictably, even when they are torqued properly. They just don't have it!

There are reasons why Uncle Sam surpluses stuff. Its often "poor reasoning" to think that you have purchased something that is good and useable!.

I've used it to flush the oil from the cooling system when an oil cooler failed. It worked Good. It doesn't have the high suds that other soaps do.

A way is to fold the hitch part of the tongue upward - the rear-most part of the tongue forms legs to stand on. This way, the trailer can remain fully loaded. If you want to stack one on top, just reverse the top one and let the tongue hang down/up, off the back. Tis will shorten the space...

The "Service" side, left, is used to control the various brake/emergency valves. The right side, provides an air supply, to do the work!.

I forgot about which way the front drive turns. That would be tough to fix. I did use the earlier T-case. It worked for many years. Then you get rid of the sprague problem too. Probably you will want the lower gear.

That is only because the M35 doesn't need two. Some of the outlets, just have covers over them! Also, another application is the T-case from the 211/135 predecessor (don't remember the number). However its load rating is slightly less, but its easy to bolt in. Even the M37, had a T-case...

You don't have room for a brownie. Just change the T-case, for one with a two-speed (M35). When I did that, its possible to modify the original T-case to get the two speeds back, but it takes some fancy machine work. Wen that automatic is working, its good. But it is sure a lot of work to...

BTW, When adjusting these brakes, I find it beneficial to jack up both ends of the same axle, that will let you rotate each wheel end, during adjustment. Lee

If the brakes are in need of adjustment, the pedal will go all the way, or close to all the way to the floor. Successive pedal strokes will get shorter and shorter/firmer and firmer, until the pedal travels very little, and is very solid! Don't try to trouble shoot the system, unless it has...

The bolts will do just fine BUT, get them long enough so that there are no threads on the bolt shanks, until they exit the tow bar feet. Then you can cut/drill them for the keeper pins. Otherwise you have less then the desired shank diameter, due to the root diameter of the threads! Lee

The wrenches are interchangeable. They are Bud wheels