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Did you try a search for "RV hookup panel"? It seemed to come up with a few for me... https://www.amazon.com/Temporary-Power-Outlet-Panel-Weatherproof/dp/B0C9QM5TJ8/

@Chainbreaker A 16" radial arm saw is going to need a pretty substantial motor. I have seen a number of that size and vintage radial arm saws with five and ten HP motors on them, always three phase. That is scary powerful in my book...

If you go the break in oil route, change the oil and oil filter again at 100 hours. I have done it on a few engines that I either didn't know the history of, or had doubts about the cleanliness (dirt / casting sand, etc.) of the engine. I agree with @Ray70 that you can't have too much ZDOP added...

If you need more wire, I believe that the type of wire that you are looking for "TGGT", aka Teflon-Glass-Glass-Teflon covered nickel coated copper wire. While perhaps not stocked in a basic box store, it is sold by a number of cable vendors, eBay, Amazon, and others. Just know the gauge wire...

".ru" ...

There is an older thread that suggests that pump; https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/802-803-fuel-pump-fittings.184917/post-2477378 My recollection is that @DieselAddict here talked to Airtex/Carter and got the skinny on the replacement...

Congratulations on your fix, and getting it running! If it were me, I would think about a small overcoat of conformable sealant to help protect the longevity of your board and repair. There a number available, but I don't know what your board might benefit from. (I don't know what is on there...

I think the fuse was/is a (Mersen) Ferraz Shawmut "Amp-trap" ATX-3, where the X is missing, perhaps "M" for midget (1 1/2" long)? There are eBay listings for Ferrari ATM-3 listings, if you want to look it up. e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/383671751698? That would have been a fast acting fuse...

They (Craig labs) do make several different concentrations, so I think that the old brain isn't so feeble. The D5 is 5%, though they also make several 100% versions (different applicators). https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/ The D5 should do what you need, squirt it in, and with the power off...

White smoke in a diesel is generally cold fuel, i.e. not fully combusted. Often the cause is a bad injector that is overfueling a cylinder, but a cold engine can do it for a while, and I have it happen with bad rings. Overfueling in general, due to an air leak in the fuel line, or a bad...

Where else do you recommend? I did the intakes, the drain under the engine, and sealed the power feed through. The coolant drain I protected with a female brass GHT to barb adapter, with the female section flipped over to protect the hose. Anywhere else of concern? Can mice get in through the...

The third possibility is that you buy a variable frequency drive for the pump so that it soft starts. If you go that route, I would recommend filters in and out of the VFD if your well pump is a submersible pump down the well. If it is on the surface, I would put them at least on the generator...

@Guyfang Thanks! I find it interesting to see the schematic of the design of the controller. All the best, 2Pbfeet

The manual scan isn't very high resolution, so I don't think it is exactly readable. General idea, yes.

Sorry; I missed that in your first post. Perhaps a bad key switch? All the best, 2Pbfeet

The breaker is an unusual size, 16.7A, and includes a flyback diode for RF suppression, so probably a special run for the 531s. There are alternatives that are close, but not exact...I think that BlueSea makes some that are "close", e.g. 15A, and you would need to add your own flyback diode...

Sorry to hear about your issue. @Light in the Dark makes some great suggestions. Given how cold it is, is it possible that you have some fuel gelling going on and plugging the fuel filter, or fuel lines? All the best, 2Pbfeet

FWIW: The 120 to neutral three phase is also 208V hot to hot, aka WYE or zig-zag. There are several varieties of WYE -Delta or zig-zag-Delta transformers available, if the need arises. All the best, 2Pbfeet

@Jasone The lacing on one of the stator(?) windings looks like it has either been nibbled on or burned off in photo #1. It is hard to tell from the resolution of the photograph, but the varnish also looks a bit off. I could easily be wrong. I hope that all the magic smoke didn't get out. All...

Just curious, @kloppk when calibrations are performed, what do you recommend as the source of reference values? All the best, 2Pbfeet