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Almost sounds like picking up air or a restriction in the fuel delevery system. As for the fuel pressures we need a gage the has up to 100 psi range. We place that gage between the secondary and final fuel filters at the bleed screw. Idle pressure should be 30 psi minimum and high idle 60 psi...
You do not need to fill the filters that is the job of the in tank fuel pump. Turn on just the in tank pump and open the bleeder screw that is in between the secondary and final fuel filter. There should be a good flow of fuel when all the air is pushed out of the system. We also can put a gage...
If you have pretty good flow of fuel at the bleed screw between the secondary and final or you gage it and have your 4 to 7 psi it should at least fire off. Then the booster pump will be kicking in when the rpm start to come up.
When you took the Head apart did you remove everything like the...
One inch is to big for what I do as I do not need a Metric ton of applied torque to tighten anything. I got the one key 3/4 for what I do now and I picked up the 1/2" for the smaller things I do and yea I do like them. When working as a young man in the shop I would always reach for my air tools...
Glad you found it not a dumbass. At my age now I have to take pictures of everything that has small parts and peices so I do not mess up on put things back together. That one would have never made the guess what my problem is guess list. On the lighter side there have been some that have done...
Ocala is big where are you and how far does the Deuce need to go. I have tow bar and 2 trucks big enough to handle the Deuce well three trucks but we don't need the 816 to move a Deuce.
Fuel does not really flow from the return line on the injectors it more just burps just a bit. There are something you are going to have to check but myself start with checking the timing. Remove the oil fill cap and it helps to have two people but rotate the motor over till you can see the #2...
If you line up the red tooth with the head pointer you can remove the head and put it back the same way, pointer red tooth it will not be 180* out. The only way to get 180* is to not be on TDC compression stroke and remove the IP. Then install the IP correctly but you are not on TDC compression...
You ran fresh fuel from a bottle and hooked it up? Need flow from the in tank pump first at this point. Then see where your at. As for the 180* out yes you are correct take the head out on mark put it back in on mark your good.
Yes tear that head all the way down, all ports even the plunger when you can get the plunger sleeve freed up. The delivery valve 12 point on the side of the head is not real tight. Hopefully you already removed the center top plug from the head before you removed the head from the IP as that one...
I had thought about getting the one inch but it was not on the market quite a while ago. Also I do not plan on building any bridges so the 3/4 inch drive fuel for me.
No that would be to much water. Mop and mister clean then sponge wash the same area then wipe with clean dry rag. Glad I did not have to do a 53 foot trailer. I could have done the whole thing in a day but only doing a couple of hours each day. I had to pick up a 105 trailer for a friend this...
This 30 footer is trying to kick my Donkey but getting close to clean. Just the floor and ceiling left now. Dirty wall pic and same wall cleaned. No need to repaint a parts storage trailer.
Yep one of the few times the plunger sleeve is stuck on the plunger. You might be able to get a flat blade screwdriver in the plunger sleeve slot and sea if you can just work it a bit to get it free. If not then Head removal looks like is on the work order. Might need something stronger sprayed...