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Looks good!

Why would you install a 24V coil relay when the system is designed for a 12V isolated coil relay? It seems to me that 12V would not be enough voltage to properly energize a 24V coil.

I am sorry but I do not understand how the load is split between both batteries. When you have a minute could you please elaborate further? Thanks.

Congratulations on the new M1009. nopics

Turn the ignition key on and remove the pink wire from the top of the IP. As you remove and replace this wire listen for the click of the fuel shutoff solenoid. If it does not click when you reinstall the pink wire the truck will never start. There is a bleeder on top of the fuel filter...

Front battery positive and the back battery negative are the same point electrically speaking. Either one will work to provide 12V to your glow plug relay. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/62408-story-my-cucv-12v-glow-plug-conversion.html#post739053

I measured an average of around 1.2 ohms on my new glow plugs fresh out of the box. Since they are in parallel the total resistance of all eight would be 0.15 ohms. Assuming your resistor on the firewall is fully functional E/R=I would be 12/0.15=80A. If we use the 11.39V you measured that...

I vote for inside on the mount.

Good work tracking down that elusive (missing) ground. Doesn't the brake light circuit and turn signal circuit energize the same filament in the tail lamps?

The glow plug relay clicking is no guarantee the glow plugs are actually getting hot. Hot glow plugs and ether don't play together nicely. No white smoke would indicate fuel not getting to the cylinders. What is the temperature supposed to be tomorrow? You could add diesel 911 to the tank...

I checked the IP return check valve yesterday. No crud inside of it, the glass ball is intact and moved freely so I would like to think the IP is not in the process of disintegrating. After setting just under 24 hours and at approximately 28 degrees it fired right up so I am thinking that it...

Congratulations! Nice looking truck.

Looking good.

Nice work! Does the LED indicate when the glow plugs are energized? Did you do your own traces or did you had a shop make a batch?

Did you build that one? Looks a lot nicer than the one in my truck.

After more reading here it could be shaft seals in the IP leaking fuel into the valley as well. Start with the fuel lines and see what happens. How hard is it to replace the shaft seals in the IP assuming everything else in the pump is okay?

Link to pictures: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/11636-cucv-wont-accelerate-wont-rev-neutral-until-rpms-creep-up-4.html#post699410

Today I tested the GP controller as per the TM. My voltages were low until I changed my ground location for the meter and then they looked better. The controller appears to be working, the glow plugs cycled on and off. It was maybe 28 degrees when I tried to start the truck. Lots of cranking...

I installed all new Wellman 070 glow plugs. The truck started just fine one time. On the second attempt at starting all eight new glow plugs burned out (see picture). The lot of glow plugs was bad, or the glow plug relay pulled in but did not release, or the resistor on the firewall went...

What a waste of our money.