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#1 When I did my disc brake swap there was no slop between the rotor and the stud. The studs have to be pressed into the rotor or they do not fit!
#2 The original drum I pulled off of the truck did not have a register to center the drum either.
The B-52 kit from Diy4x is what you want for the 52" spring install if you want quick/easy and don't mind spending money... but there is a cheap way to do it too by just moving your factory mounts. Grind out the rivets on the front spring mount and swap them from side to side while moving them...
There is a good chance you have issues internally. If things change between cold and warm it is usually a sign that a crack is opening up in the aluminum when warm. I would pull the pan and inspect everything you can closely, mostly, how much metal is in the pan when it comes off?
Last engine I had with vibration issues had a cracked block that lead to a broken crank... and I put a new balancer on it and pulled the pan to inspect it before I put it in my truck. I found nothing I could see with the naked eye at that time, but 9 months later it gave out.
There are no gears in the high range of a transfer case. It is just a direct drive through the tcase with a 1:1 ratio (directly coupled shafts from input to output).
The tires will wear out in the center first with over 50% tread left on the outside walls... The better gas mileage is due to less tire contact with the road, in turn you have less traction.
Kert is a great guy to deal with. Just don't spend too much time looking at his website or his vendor forum posts on CK5 or you will find more ways to empty your wallet than to fill it...
DIY4X: Catering to those who enjoy doing it themselves.
Kert at diy4x makes those block off plates (laser cut). Just give him a call and I bet it will be less than $20 to your door. IIRC, I think he charged me $25 shipped when I did two axle flange plates plus the pinion block off plate to make...
I just replaced an alt belt on my K20 recently and found that the upper bolt was stripped out and letting the alternator move under load. I drilled that hole out and ran a bolt through with a nut on the back to fix that one. It just makes it harder to adjust the tension by yourself.
The other...
Either way, you should back off the inner nut after the final torque to achieve the .001-.010 end play when your done. The torque of the outer locknut should not affect much at 60 or 160 ft-lbs. It just keeps the washer in place, which keeps the inner locknut from backing out/rotating.
They ride like crap until you get a few miles down the road. I've actually had them toss a Humvee into the ditch on me once trying to drive up to Camp Ripley. If you have an axle that is prone to death wobble, they will make it very apparent too.
I prefer the 37" radials over the 36" bias...
The correct procedure according to my 1979 GM factory service manual:
Torque the inner nut to 50 ft-lbs while rotating the bearing hub, then back off and re-torque to 35 ft-lbs while rotating the bearing hub.
Then, back off the inner nut again 3/8 turn maximum.
Next install washer and outer...
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