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I just use one of the bolts that hold on the hub / gear cap. If the bolt was a snake it would have bit you when you removed the center cap to get to the axle. It is the correct threads and long enough then just replace it when done.
Myself I would replace the transfer case air piston preformed packing. There is right up about it.https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?180693-M813A1-Transmission-Air-leak&highlight=transfer+case+air+cylinder
Post #4 starts my post but read the whole thread.
Seems like no matter what you run gas or diesel 1200* is a starting to worry point if it hangs there to long. Now as said if your are lugging it and RPM is not even close to red line and your hitting 1200* then that to can be a problem. Here you would down shift to bring up the rpm and see if...
Yea if the knuckle is not packed with grease you can just take out one of the bottom bolts that holds on the knuckle cap bushing and check / drain water.
As said crank case by way of the road draft tube / loose oil fill cap would be my main worry if it got as high as the air filter or above. If the work order has not been done the fuel tank and master cylinder are hook to it. If it has been done then just the fuel tank vent is connected. Also...
Use. Loaded up and old car that was used for target practice in the dump trailer. Had enough scrap weight to buy lunch. Just took a good look at the pic and without the roof the car looks like a red frog. Rivet Rivet
Could I ask you what your plans are for the truck? Stays on you property or on road use. The only trucks I have ever bought were from the government and had about 30 of them. Now every one that I serviced I found that the axles needed service. That is new seals and bearing repacked. Then when in...
Sounds like an idea and a plan. Allen we don't have to pull and injector we can just use one of your extra or one of mine. That way if your injector is bad / gummed up at least we know my new on is good to go. So just pull a line might be the quickest way to test for pop pressure. Yes Head is...
See you read the thread I posted. If that leak is not coming from the top side then sorry pump needs to come out. Best to have someone that has done it before and correctly . The other thing would be a good injection shop and see if they will pump up the PT when they are fixing the whole pump...
allie this is a old thread and last post 6-11-18 so don't know if the OP will answer. From your pic I believe your throttle shaft is leaking and pump has to come out.
Really no one else sends there oil out to Blackstone with all the worry. Seems like it would also be nice to know about the rest of your engine too. I do all the trucks I drive on a regular bases.https://blog.amsoil.com/do-older-vehicles-need-high-zinc-motor-oil/
Greg and I derailed a thread when discussing IP problems. So I did this in response to his last post and off the good meds with clear thoughts. As for you get back to work Allen and yes we will get it running.
Going from the bottom line and working up, plunger or head bad. Yep but have no real way or easy way without spinning up the IP to check correct pressures. We have our fingers crossed.
Secondary fuel block over pressure valve. Yep it would for sure steal the pressure / flow away from the IP...
This was posted by Rustystud along with some tm's in the thread we derailed.
OK, first off the "overflow valve" does not keep pressure at 60 PSI . That is the job of the "fuel pressure relief valve" .
Second, the hole is there for "air" accumulation to escape and for "cooling" of the pump...
Ok starting this thread because we were derailing another.
Allen aka Florida AKM bought a nonrunner and looks like both the engine heads were removed at one time. We decided to remove the IP Head and yes the button was off but also the spring was broken for the plunger. Allen got all the parts...