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However, if you do it properly it will be identical to a 12V civi diesel like my '83. That is what 90% of the wiring on the CUCV came from. The 24V system on the CUCV is nothing more than the civi setup with extra's added on to accommodate the 24V system. To convert it your mainly removing the...

One off like the 2 million other "civi" trucks out there? They all run 12V and are the basis of the 24V system on the CUCV's.

Knowing that my truck is slowing rotting away underneath me would be the opposite of therapeutic for me!

After cutting up my old family Suburban I realized that 10 out of 12 body mounts were rusted out and no longer held the body onto the frame... I'm lucky I didn't get into an accident with that rig or my entire family (or whoever was riding in the rig at least) would no longer be here. I swore...

Do you care about the safety of your passengers? If it was only to get home, that's OK, but to leave it that way for a few years until you get around to patching up the sheetmetal is putting anyone who sits in that seat at serious risk during an accident. It would be very hard for a seat belt to...

Is your truck still 24V? If so it will not work with the resistor bank used to drop the voltange and will actually make your rig harder to start.

You need to swap in the diesel governor as well as changing to a NEW torque converter. Don't put the torque converter off of the burned up transmission on a good transmission. It will just put all the garbage out of the failed transmission into a good one.

It would also be a good time to consider an upgraded axle if you have a lift and bigger tires. Those 10 bolts are not going to hold up to much.

There are always people parting these rigs out and scrapping the rust free body's on this end of the country. I'm sure for the right amount of money you could find someone willing to cut out a section and ship it. Check out www.ck5.com and www.crazyk5.com

RE: Re: RE: VIN number There is a VIN decoder here: http://brochures.slosh.com/

Willing to drive to texas? http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239551

I have a flywheel for a 6.2L sitting on my shelf. They are out there but rare.

First of all a body lift doesn't affect cooling... removing/modifying the fan shroud does. You can do the taurus electric fan modification to eliminate that problem though if you really like the ugly body lifts. I run a 2" suspension lift with 37" tires and some trimming. I think it turned out...

Just because it is new, doesn't mean anyone is looking to buy it is the problem. At least with the 14FF rear axle there will be several people bidding on it on ebay.

RE: more photos of rear axle The bolt on pinion housing gives it away as a 14 bolt.

This may be your problem actually... you should have matching batteries or they will actually drain each other. Never mix used batteries with new batteries either. Two brand new batteries of the same size and rating will probably make a big difference for you.

15W40 would be better to run in all climates. If you really want to help it out (and your motor isn't leaking a lot) I'd even go synthetic if you can afford it. What you have is the gear reduction starter, however it may be possible you picked up a defective one too. Also, what size battery...

I run the 37" Hummer tires with 2" lift and a lot of fender trimming. 8.75 x 16.5" wheels (4.75" backspacing).

Do you know how to use the service/blackout light switch? There is an OFF position ;)

PM'd you with a CL link.