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I did an upgrade to get intermittent wipers and better washer system from a 87 Civy Crew Cab my documentation shows how to disassemble to access the linkage:
1991 K30 CCLB
Put many RVMs on when I worked at the dealership. Locktite and 3M kits were always used. razor the old off, use the cleaner primer in the kit and then reglue holding it for the specified time. Always worked for me.
Wow - talk about canibization.
One of the units on base just aquired some M1078s to fill a new requirement. One of the cabs has some bad rust damage and they decided to order a whole new cab for it rather then turn the truck in and find another. Don't now how long it will take to get in and...
You don't need the upper brackets just get the angle correct drill two holes (one on each side) mount a shock bolt and attach the shocks. Done it many times in the past whe I was working on lift kits for the Blazers.
Look at the -20 TM figure 122 and see how the rh shock mounts. Its tight...
Although to set one up or take one down by the TM it may take more than 1 person, I have done it many times by my self on the M934 dual NDTs version (not including the support stands as we rarely used them in my unit). Once you've done it a couple times its not at all bad.
Keep your seals in...
Unless they have changed a lot the military warn winches we've installed on Hummers were just heavily coated in some type of undercoating to seal them.
Also the only thing 24v on a CUCV is the starting circuit and military accessories. Just buy a good 12v system winch and apply the savings to...
I swapped in a Civy harness from a diesel donor vehicle to get gauges, intermittent wipers, washer pump in the reservoir and a few other creature comforts and now I'm trying to install the B/O lamp circuit to the factory harness without any splicing and bubba'n the wiring.
Truck is starting...
Anyone have an extra CUCV interior harness? Really only interested in the head lamp switch w/ B/O lamp switch wiring and the fuse box. There is also a connector running to brake lamps switch so it can be somewhat butchered.
The condition code is assigned based on economic repairs to make it seriveable to the government along with other factors allowing the unit to be turned in to DRMO.
You might also pull the cowl and the plastic piece under it, reach down in the cavity on driver and passenger sides and make sure there are not years of debris and stuff built up and plugging the cowl drains on each side. This is also a common problem on GM trucks from 73-87 and 88-91 Subs...
If you have an USAF M Series vehicle from at least 1980 on and has a number other that the following format the unit did it on their own. The USAF went to a license plate looking placards with the vehicle ID number only on them and it was usally on the rear left. Before that it would have been...
Not in any particular order but I think I listed everything...
Remove lower column dash panel (plastic)
Remove lower dash panel (metal)
Disconnect all the wiring connectors on the column under the dash (hardest part)
Unbolt the firewall plate under the dash
Unbolt the two column to dash studs...
Make sure you have the intermittent wiper module too or it will never work.
Plastic box with aluminum fins that slides in a mount under the center column dash panel.
http://i.ebayimg.com/21/!BZKCV!QCGk~$(KGrHgoH-EIEjlLlzEZJBKlUrKpDYw~~_12.JPG
search eBay for: 84 85 86 87 CHEVY TRUCK WIPER...
I have to agree. How many people join this site because they have a Mil Vehicle and are looking for advice. Most will never read the rules or the FAQ about the site in general.
Rather then ask the question did you use the "Search" function a little help and explaining that you found it using...
If you are talking about the lines that run the full length of the radiator (fender to fender) I have a good set. Let me get them out and wipe them off and I'll take a picture if you are interested.
Also have a complete set of the rubber lines from oil filter forward (no sample plumbing)
pm me...