Search results

seriously DM, you hack that truck and I'm boycotting ODiron... Put a different engine in it if you have to but seriously that truck is rarer than a deuce wrecker.

you can "shim" the kingpin slightly. i'd measure from the frame to the ground on both sides of the truck in a few points and compare side to side measurements. also measure the space from the frame to the spring directly over the axle on both sides and see if its the same.

it very well could be the pump is bad, as the pump heats up the fuel thins out and will seep past worn seals in a bad pump and not build pressure. Adding a few qts of ATF to the fuel will thicken it a bit when its warm, also icing the IP will help diagnose a worn pump.

oh, if just the pulley is wobbling, but its more than 1/8" you can get a replacement pulley. the GM dealer "should" be able to get it. you need a 3-groove crank pulley.

harmonic damper for a 6.2L diesel engine.

Armada might be able to pull it with his 5ton.

ok, now look closely, is just the pulley wobbling, or is the damper behind it wobbling as well. If its just the pulley and not wobbling more than 1/8" i wouldnt worry about it. If the damper is wobbling as well you can get a new damper from the GM dealer.

RE: yo Welcome, could you add NC to the location part of your profile. Some guys probably wont know what state clayton is in.

argh, if only i wasent 5hrs away. i know we have some members in the area.

The shutoff solenoid that they are referring to is just under the top cover of the injector pump (where the pink wire attaches). The common test for it is to pull the wire with the key to "run" but engine off. When you put the wire back on you should hear a distinctive "click".

not bad, just paint those shiny mirrors ;)

the damper is directly behind the Crankshaft pulley (the lowest one, right below the fan pulley) if your alternator pulleys are wobbling that may be a sign that they need to be gone through as the bearings might be bad.

What i'm suggesting is to take the wiring of the truck out of the equation. If it cranks when you short the two terminals you have good voltage getting to the starter, it would be the switched lead (S terminal wire) that would be your issue.

I'd be happy to help with the recovery and have a place that it could sit until you can come get it, but i wouldnt pull that with my deuce, (esp since it has no bed right now). The area it would be stored in is "memphis"...

too wide of a rim i'd say.

I wonder if the wire going to the S terminal on the starter is bad. get a heavy screwdriver with an insulated handle, and short the large lug on the starter with the S terminal and see if it cranks. The groud for the engine is on the passenger side rear, short cable that goes to the negative...

The 6.2 is a good engine. its not a powerhouse, never was meant to be one. The biggest thing to watch for is the damper on the front of the engine, behind the crank pully. its made of two pieces of metal fused together with rubber. If you see that part wobbling around or chunks of rubber...

the only thing that is 24v on the cucv is the starter itself, teh glowplugs run through a dropping resistor fed from the 24v (just so they have power if slave starting from another truck) everything else is 12v.

I guess i needed some more sleep, thanks for catching me guys ;)

For 2.5" you shouldnt have to, but might want to put longer rubber lines on just to be safe.