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I've seen quite a few cool deuce pics, so I think it would be neat to start a thread with those even though they're not mine <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_big.gif" alt="Big Smile">. We'll kick it off with this one <img src="http://www.manualstore.de/pictures_cs/m35a2_p.jpg" border="0">

I wnat to make double sure before I order some tires- the 11x20's will fit on stock deuce rims in place of 9x20's? thanks!

there's tons of dealers out there, but in my search I narrowed it to Joe YOung, Eastern Surplus, but finally settled on Idaho Motor Pool based on referrals and proximity to my area. I got a great truck through them. Where are you located? You don't want to drive one of these beasts too far...

that should work- I can't find the page now, but I saw one where a guy had 11x20 duals with no clearance problems. It all comes down to brand, apparently they can vary widely. Just make sure there is at least one inch clearance between the tires

thanks, will keep you posted if I get anything. I checked the bulbs, they're 24v and I bought some spares- OUCH! $10.72 for two bulbs <img src="emoticons/icon_smilie_bitchin.gif" alt="Bitchin">

well, we tested power to the brake light switch and couldn't get anything. Looking at the info I found it indicates that the signal wire in the light switch had burned up and taken the brake light wires with it. I popped off the signal switch cover and there were some burned wires, but it...

eeps! argh, well, the wire in the light switch that burned up was yellow- corresponding with the turn signal. But, my signal switch works now so I figured that's not what was initially at fault. Now that you mention that I'll not run the light switch until I check out the signal thanks

so I got my new (used) light switch from Alex today, popped it on, everything works now EXCEPT the brake lights. Alex had warned the brake light switch could also have burned up, he said that's not uncommon. Well, we located the brake light switch (we're pretty darn sure that's what it was, on...

just thinking about it, the easiest would be over/under, that way the shaft will apply greater leverage and more stroke to the bottom cylinder, that will be whichever one you want more pressure to, it would be easier than side by side I'd think. You'd just need to take whichever lines out of...

you're right, see my other post, Alex told me about the kit. It replaces the sprag with a series of gears and allows you to manually shift. It's under $500, but I'm looking to see about retrofitting airshift to the sprag now. Dave at Eastern Surplus says you just need to replace the front...

oops, sorry for the confusion- I meant to say my homemade flanges didn't fit the front, so I tried to fit them on the rear and the same story- they wouldn't fit cause I didn't leave that hollowed out bowl shaped area like the stock one has, so my flanges need to be redone. At this point I...

I'm not sure what I'm talking about so forgive me, but I had an idea to take a spare master cylinder, put it side by side with the stock one, modify the linkage to operate both of them and have the front drive the front brakes and the rear drive the rear brakes. I'm not sure if that's what you...

I'd like to buy it, or, rather buy the end of it. I went to swap my front flanges off, but low and behold my flanges didn't fit- I had wondered beforehand about whether that bowl shaped area in the flange needed to be duplicated. Well, it turns out it did. I'd seen the other homemade...

mine's a 120, but it's very erratic. I'll have to check my sender cause it'll show normal pressure and work when idling, but the second I start driving it it pegs to the right and just vibrates <img src="emoticons/icon_smilie_bitchin.gif" alt="Bitchin">

wait- now I'm confused. I thought on startup I should run it at 800 RPM for five to ten minutes before starting off <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_help.gif" alt="Help"> and then idle down for five minutes? The manual said you didn't want to run at under 800 on startup because the...

that's true, I always warm her up at about 850, but when I let off the hand throttle it drops to like 750 or 700 sometimes. Then it starts shaking and running rough. That cool manual says the vibrations set up below 800 can cause parts to fly off so I don't want to cause any extra stress <img...

hmmm... I don't have the truck today, but it's been converted to diesel only, does this explain my lack of idle adjustment stops jam nuts and whatnot? All I saw is the pedal rod connected to the arm on the pump, there's no stops that I could see <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_help.gif"...

hey all I want to adjust my idle speed to 800 RPM, anytime it's below that it seems to shake too much. I went to adjust it last night but couldn't figure out the rod- it appears there are no threads anywhere on the linkage to twist the rod in or out, and no stops. I tried a search through my...

for those that are interested, Alex at IMP informed me of a shift kit that Memphis equipment Co. sells that converts the sprag in your M35 transfer case to a series of gears allowing you to manually shift it. SOunds like a very neat option, as even the airshift has a chance of malfunctioning...

yeah, my fourth is stubborn as well, I really gotta take y time on that one <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_big.gif" alt="Big Smile">