Search results

Also, SX-460 circuitry includes under-speed and sensing loss protection features. http://www.northern-lights.com/media/PDFs/manual_pdfs/SX460.pdf

Old VR ------ SX-460 1 and 2 ----- 7 and 8 That's the 120V D and E on J2 3 and 4 ----- 1 and 2 That's the adjustment pot To pot R1 5 and 6 ----- X and XX That's the field G and H on J2

An SX-460 should work on an MEP-018. If that red VR works, then I don't see why the SX-460 won't. Search SX-460. I think they're down to about $25 on ebay.

I think I'll bond one side to the chassis/frame inside the box. I'll make that side the neutral on the outputs. The pic calls it a power source neutral.

Is there any good reason NOT to ground one side of the 120V output? From the pic it looks like you have 60V to ground on hot and neutral if you don't. Grounding one side to the gen frame and then grounding the gen frame to Earth seems to be the safest thing to do. Any thoughts? Pic taken from...

Frequency is tied to engine RPM. 61.5 with no load should get you around 60 with a reasonable load. Most MEPs have a knob to adjust engine RPM. Just get your load running and tweak the knob, if it has one. Voltage is not as critical as frequency. Most things rated for 120V don't care if...

Here's a pic. I put two 20A breakers on the output, one on each duplex receptacle. Also, considering grounding one side of the output to the gen frame.

Went through the 016D and got rid of non-essential (to me) stuff. Kept the frequency meter, hour meter, and Volt meter. Replaced the VR with a $25 ebay SX-460. Wired for 120V single phase only.

They appear to be similar. The 016B head has three tapped holes in the end to accept the round cover bolts. The rotors appear to be the same and the head bolts up to the same bell housing.

I have now. I loaned my 016D out and it came back dead. I get about 0.6 Ohms between T1-T4, T1-T3, T1-T6, T3-T6, T4-T6. BUT, I did modify the wiring and used 2 of the 3 circuit breaker sections, one of which may have been rated 35A. Also, the knucklehead I loaned it to let it run out of fuel.

Different NSN #s. 016B has an end cover that bolts to the head. 016A has the end cover made into the control box. My 016D was loaned out and came back dead. I'm hoping to take the head from my 016E and put it on the 7HP Yanmar in the 016D frame. Later, I'm hoping to couple the 10HP Yanmar...

Will a gen head from a 016A fit on a 016B? They look different externally. Are internals the same?

Here's an old 30kW with that motor. http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14538 One of the tags says fuel -gasoline. Does your motor have spark plugs?

Gas? Or Diesel? Some of the really old ones (and Deuces) can run on either. Does it look like this? http://imgur.com/HXprS If so, maybe some clues here: http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103737 If not, post a pic and any other info you can find on it. It's probably a pre...

There should be a washer/gasket between the injector and the head. I don't remember if the glow plug has one or not.

New gaskets under glow plug and injector? Spurt spurt spurt plus air should equal start. If not, then maybe check compression.

If you get the spurt spurt spurt and no start then check injector and glow plug for leaks. Leak = not enough compression for combustion.

When you put the IP back in did you make sure the governor lever engaged the IP properly?

Did you remove the IP at any time?

If there is air in the IP system then you won't get the spurt spurt spurt when turning over with the nut loose. Is it starting at all? Is the solenoid moving how and when it is supposed to?