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The SX460 calls for a 5A fuse in the diagram. You could probably use the spare fuse holder in the 016E. Isn't is just a fuse holder that isn't wired to anything? If not an inline fuse is not expensive.

Yes, if you connect 1 and 2 (SX460) to 26 and 28 (gen) then you can use the existing pot.

I just ran it bare bones. I can field flash with a couple of wires if necessary so I didn't want any extra stuff.

Here's how I'd do it. (Or, how I did it, kinda.) Jumpers I added in red. Jump 3 and 4 for low voltage 110/120V operation. Jump C and 60 for 60Hz. x and xx go to field 7 and 8 go to 24 and 27 1 and 2 go to 28 and 26 See pics.

Looking at the 016B schematic it appears as though the convenience outlet is tied to the same wires (24 and 27) as the VR. In the pic that part of the diagrams shows 120V to the A2U1 convenience outlet and to the VR. Two wires go from the VR to the field. Two wires go from the VR to the...

I gutted my 701A/016E box and just wired the thing for 120V. But, you should be able to pick up 120V at any stator output. The SX460 just uses the 120 for power (uses very little) and to monitor the output so it can regulate. If I hadn't deleted my reconnect switch I would look strongly at...

Baldor still makes a similar civilian 30D36R type but it is Hatz powered now. Baldor DG3E Portable Generator - DG3E - 3000 Watt Industrial Electric Start Diesel Generator They're about $2500 online.

Yes, I would trade my 30D36R for your little 2kW. I posted a pic of mine. It has Wisconsin (Fuji) Diesel power and can use a 12V battery for electric starting.

The ground is more for people safety than for machine happiness.

I think you're mistaken about the importance of grounding. Worst case you won't be looking for a new generator. The generator might be looking for a new operator.

There goes the neighborhood, again.

I've used Hylomar for a long time. It is especially good for intake gaskets on cars that you have to pull apart frequently.

In the field the military guys aren't usually powering residential panels. They usually wire gens to other military equipment that was designed and built to be powered by military gens. There are lengthy threads about proper grounding, which is important.

Not yet but the 003 is sitting in the trailer in the back yard now and so is in line to be looked at after a couple of cars get rolling. I don't know if it will need a VR but if it does I have a spare SX460 on the shelf.

Yeah, when you get a 016D that has about 250 hours on it but the gen head has a tag from 1969 you have to admit the gen head is probably a reliable thing and been through at least one engine overhaul.

Gaskets, sealants, and Hylomar are supposed to fill voids in mating surfaces. Often less is better.

If you go that way you should probably wire one side of your panel and put all your loads (breakers) on that side. I would just wire it 220 and maybe try and put 1/2 the loads on one side of the panel and 1/2 the loads on the other side. I don't know if it is against code to jump a single...

I think everyone should just buy good, running gens from people like Jim. That way no one is bidding against me, except maybe Jim.

The new "gasket in a tube" sealants work well. Many OEM auto manufacturers use them nowadays. Hylomar would work fine. To use the Hylomar remove the gasket and clean any gunk or debris that is on it and the mating surfaces. Rub a thin layer of Hylomar on both sides of the gasket...

I'm about 10 for 10 getting small GL gens going. Most have required minor repairs and some required some parts. I can fix anything but a rainbow or a broken heart, though. I see bargains on craigslist frequently, too.