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Probably will run cooler over time. I keep one of those point and shoot thermometers in the glove box to check the axles.
Also check the brake drum, if it is hot it can transfer the heat to the hub and make you think it is the bearing or seal.
"More fun" for sure! The tower is right in the way. I came up with using some toggle bolts, the stock ones would require a female oriental mechanic that can do things I can't do.
Sure wish I had such a mechanic. :sad:
There is one issue to be aware of though. A few of the attaching nuts and bolts go behind the seat belt uprights on the A3 and are a real bitch to attach. Other than that it is identical.
Wire 16: Light switch (HT) to service headlamp or dimmer switch
Wire 17: Dimmer switch to high beam service lamps
Wire 118: ?
Wire 175: ?
Are you sure on the bottom two numbers? They don't show up anywhere I can find.
http://www.olive-drab.com/od_mseries_circuits.php3
Peashooter, are you sure it will warn you if a circuit fails? On my A3 I think all it does is tell you the parking brake is on.
I added a brake light kit to my A2 (single circuit) and all it does is illuminate when the buzzer is on.
I made a cheap and easy toe in gauge using a piece of 1/2" pvc pipe with a 1/2" cpvp pipe inside. Took a little electrical tape to make it slide in and out but stay in place as you measured.
Easy to check in back and front and determine toe in.
If you can't find the mil kit, you can get the same kit for about $70 on Amazon. I just finished installing mine and it is exact the mil one, even 24 volt. I was able to use some extra fuel line to the heater to eliminate the "t" at the injectors and the plugs were all available at Lowe's...
I once went to a soup kitchen in NY you might like. The owner enforced the rules and everyone stayed in line properly.
On the rare occasion someone violated the rules, the owner simply looked at them and said "NO SOUP FOR YOU- ONE YEAR"
It was a delight. :driver: