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You are running it at 3600RPM, right? Anything not close to 3600 and all bets are off, it will do all sorts of crazy things if turning way too slow or way too fast. I wouldn't worry about way too fast but slow can certainly be an issue.

Before I insert household current into anything I'd try a little DC on the Field and see if you get any AC out of the stator. There should be procedures for checking the VR in the TMs. Is the VR putting out DC to the Field when it is running? It might use the same VR as the 016s. Also...

Very nice.

Unless you bought a heap most of the gens are DRMO'd for minor reasons. The 16s might need VRs or something. Starting them is not hard, they're Diesel. Fuel and air and compression is all they need. Post some pics if you can.

You may need to bleed the injector lines to let the air out. I'm not sure if that was included in "flushing fuel lines". If the Yanmars have been sitting a while you may have to remove and clean the injector pump as they get sticky sometimes.

Definitely replace the bad breaker. You don't want to have to replace your AC or other appliances.

BTW, the 017 is a 3600 RPM gen set. The 002 is an 1800 RPM Diesel gen set. When it comes to fuel consumption there is a big advantage to the Diesel. Remember, the military doesn't care how much fuel costs. LPG and NG have some advantages over gasoline but you don't get 100% output from LPG...

This can be done on some of the MEPs but I'm not sure about the 017.

I got mine for less than $300 with about 150 hours on it. That is neither here nor there, though. If I see any nearby in good condition going for less than $300 I will bid on them all day long. The prices always vary depending on who is bidding at the time. When I got my 016D I saw the 016E...

The ASK makes it heavier and it is still pretty loud. 016D is still my favorite, pull rope and if you lose the electric fuel pump you can fill the small Yanmar tank and keep right on going, no battery to maintain, less to go wrong.

Are you connecting the load to L1 and L3?

In my experience $500 is a good price for a good running 701A. The ones I've gotten from GL have been around $300 and about half of them required some minor repair or adjustment. I much prefer the 016D, mostly because of the pull rope. The correct battery for a 701A is not cheap. A...

There are studies and theories and there is conjecture. I've never seen a MEP with exposed electronic parts. They are already in boxes. Your question is not invalid but I think a good answer is: No one is sure. If there were cut and dried facts and figures then it might be easy to say "Yes...

Seems like how to harden MEPs against EMPs would be appropriate. Same might apply to Deuce and other equipment. Although sometimes I feel like a red-headed step child only having generators and trailers on SS. When I see a private citizen driving a Deuce I assume a bit of survivalist...

What I meant was I have an 003 W/ASK. We got it running but it isn't making 24V DC. We haven't looked at the AC end of it, yet. It is on the back burner and I have too many other projects right now. The ASK isn't perfect, though, it is missing some parts on the air intake end. If you're...

LOL "Excellent" is the exact word that came to mind when I read his post, too.

Your stuff would fail a concours competition because it looks TOO good. BTW, do you know John S, with the Deuce and Halftrack? His shop is in LP.

I am. It can be had for a reasonable price, too. I have too many projects right now. BTW, the 701A ASKs are Aluminum.

I enjoyed "One Second After" but I am not sure what will and will not be affected by an EMP. Preparation for Godzilla is easier. There are facts about and videos of Godzilla that I can use on which to base my opinions to form a strategy.

Yes. I wouldn't inhale any form of CARC. I don't think the military has the same safety standards as the rest of the government and CARC is mean stuff. E vs B sound may be due to frequencies. Some frequencies are "nicer" than others and are perceived as being quieter. In general, lower...