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On slightly related note, I had the idler pulley on my belt tensioner fail today while driving. (after reading previous post where I talk about a replacement tensioner, I ended up selling the one pictured above to another member on here and last I heard it was doing fine, so this post is about...
Personally for battery connections I prefer noalox. It keeps out the air/oxygen to prevent corrosion, and the zinc in it can help improve electrical connections. The zinc also acts as a sacrificial anode if an electrolyte of some type does manage to get into the connection.
true, but it can always be loadbanked to blow out the carbon buildup.
Plus having the 831 that can be hooked up instead for light loads if the season doesn't demand additional power
Still better though than going to the 30kw generators and only pulling off one leg.
I suppose a DRASH or HDT gen...
I can see where the convenience of already having a large supply of fuel would make the diesel gen more attractive.
Looking through the forums, it DOES look like the MEP-004 15kw gen can be reconfigured from 3 phase to single phase and have full output, so that might be the best option for you...
Do you have an industrial hydraulics shop nearby? Might be easiest to go in and talk with them. I know the shops near me can make pretty much anything to do with fuel tanks and fittings like this.
The 831 is an inverter type generator, so yes, it should have clean power.
All the larger generators (00X, 80X series) are mechanical governors. They have a lot of rotating mass, but a heavy load can still cause power fluctuations, just like any civilian generator.
I'm trying to say just...
I'll second AM General. One of the guys here had one show up cracked in the box (out of 6) but I haven't had that issue. This was a couple years ago, so who knows if they still use the same packaging
fix a flat is a temporary repair.
I've had good luck with garden tractor tires using tire slime (50 year old tires with lots of cracking)
Once they start cracking the sidewalls though, they shouldn't be run on road. Too much risk/liability.
Are you trying to say that the rear brace won't physically move the 3/8" or so at the top where the generator mounts in order to be positioned behind the mounting tab on the generator?
Have you verified that there is nothing physically interfering with the brace as it angles down to the bolt...
it was pretty easy to be honest. Not a lot of room to swing a hammer, but managed to knock it apart with just a small ball pein hammer with around a dozen hits.
The two tie rod ends I replaced at the same time also only took a few decent hits to get them to release also.
When I did the pitman...
Just replaced my idler arm today with the Moog version.
I took a couple of pics of the moog vs A2 version side by side for comparison's sake.
The moog version uses 12mm bolts instead of 7/16, so I did have to run a drill bit through one of the frame mounting holes in order for the bolt to...
This topic comes up on a regular basis. People asking how to make their truck run cooler.
It's not designed to run at a cooler temp. If everything is working how it's supposed to, then the engine is operating at the correct and most efficient temperature. Trying to make it run outside of that...
For comparison's sake, I work on home standby generators.
This area is kind of damp a lot of the year, and even worse if you live near a body of water.
A typical standby generator run for about 12 minutes once per week (some are set to every other week, and some once a month)
It's very common...
ATF has more detergents than motor oil does, but modern motor oils are MUCH better than when the practice of adding ATF before an oil change was popular.
It's a diesel engine; the oil will be black no matter what you try, so just do an oil change and stop stressing about it.
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