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your A2 truck requires a 12V charge to power the transmission control module. If you do not have something to keep the rear battery charged up, they will become unbalanced and quickly kill your batteries. In some cases it's enough to destroy/rupture batteries. All 4 speed trucks require a 12V...

I don't see them on here, but in facecrook groups there are a couple people near the Portland area that have HMMWVs and are knowledgeable about them, so might be worth asking if they are able to help you out. Link to our area's group (Pacific NorthWest) if you aren't on it or don't know of it...

it wouldn't surprise me. When I was in the Army I was driving an LMTV that had a flaky CTIS brain box and would deflate your tires driving down the road.

This site has all of the HMMWV manuals in the TM section, under Present Conflict Vehicles. So for manuals the M1123 is an A2 variant truck when doing any repairs/service. In the parts manual the M1123 is UOC (Use On Code) NNN Vehicle manuals...

I know Hammer has bought several sets of tires along with rims and other tire stuff from Feltz and had a good experience.

Looking in the -34 manual for intake manifold installation it doesn't mention anything about sealants on any bolt threads.

"engine rotated" to me says that someone made sure the engine isn't seized. Literally "the engine is able to rotate over" Doesn't mean that it's a good engine, just that it isn't locked up.

just one of the many bookmarks I've made while finding information to fix my own truck.

The only troubleshooting guide I am aware of for these is the one from niehoff, and it doesn't appear to have any bench test procedures. https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

aux tank gets installed behind the rear diff, so same location as the pioneer tool kit. system is supposed to be sealed, because supposedly it can be run in 5 feet of water. If gravity is enough to make it leak fuel, then something isn't right.

it sort of belongs here instead because it's more about how to have working trailer lights when towing with the HMMWV.

if it's your trailer, and it's the only one you will ever tow, then LED multi voltage bulbs and a wiring adapter plug will work fine, and are definitely the less expensive and easiest to do modification. If you're like me and can be towing any of a dozen different trailers, most of which aren't...

Somewhere on the site there is the diagram to make it yourself. I opened mine up once. It's a 24-12V buck converter, and some relays. Really not much to it. Putting that into a case, then making up a bunch of wires to go to the various places you need to connect to in the truck, plus the...

back when I ordered mine I don't remember it taking any extra length of time to get here or anything; just a regular "order it and it's here in a week or so"

So the gauge is reading about 205 with the cadillac valve unplugged. To me that tells me that either the thermostat isn't opening at the proper temp, or that my gauge is off. With the fan fully engaged you should be seeing 180-190 degrees. You are reading about 20 degrees above that. You also...

wheels were just whatever they had in the motorpool. They pretty much all came with 12 bolt from the factory because there is no reason to use the 24. Trailer is rated for 4200 lbs gross; even the load range D tires are way more than that (3850 lbs each tire I believe, so 7700 lbs for the pair)

Everything before serial number 196900 was originally equipped with the pump integrated reservoir. It wasn't until post 196900 trucks that the reservoir is up on top of the engine. Some A2 trucks before that serial number did get the remote reservoir during rebuild for whatever reason, so it...

I use a keyed battery disconnect. I leave the switch turned on to the stop light position all the time. When battery is disconnect is turned to off it won't draw any power, so all this work to bypass or modify the light system seems a bit excessive to me.

no legal issues selling it. Yes, there is a market for it. It's not a huge market, because there isn't much real world application for it in civilian hands, so it's mostly for people that want their trucks to be "authentic" Prices on armor pieces are usually outrageous, but true armor steel...

Just to be sure, you have the pump that is supposed to have the remote reservoir, not the one with the reservoir built into the pump? When the trucks go through reset the data plate gets removed and the new one showing the rebuild only has the rebuild date on it, not the original manufacture...