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So that's how they're supposed to look! None of the buses I've seen around here have the lug nut tag thingies (technical term :p) like that.

Sounds like either a bad gauge or bad electrical connections to the gauge. Your temperatures are probably fine based on your IR thermometer readings. Like others in this topic, left idling in neutral for awhile will build up temperature. I left it idling in neutral for two hours and then...

I feel like we could write a children's book :D

Attention M35A3 owners: The Cat dealer told me that the 3116 diesel can run off low-sulfur road diesel #2 without concern for additional injection pump lubrication.

This is like what happens when you give a mouse a cookie.

Thanks for the sanity check! @frank8003 I'll get some Kroil and a syringe and hit those nuts with it. I'll throw the wire brush on the Dremel and clean those threads more thoroughly!

I totally considered getting one of those. For those prices, I've found they didn't come with a warranty and didn't want to get a dud after trying to tighten twenty nuts with 40 more to go. I don't think that's as likely to happen with my torque meter anyway. I guess it depends on who's...

I've been having a tough time getting the nuts loose and off one of the rims on my M35A3. I don't think the rim was ever apart, and the nuts were possibly overtightened at the factory. I've been using a borrowed torque multiplier to get them loose, but even halfway up the stud, my torque meter...

I think it helps that the wheel and rim lug nuts have a range of torque that's acceptable, that way someone can use a torque multiplier to get close enough. I'm an engineer at heart and want as much accuracy as I can get, though. So I was able to find a torque wrench that I could afford and do...

I feel like I get more utility out of a torque wrench. I can use it for multiple torque values instead of just topping out at one with a torque stick. I recently bought a 3/4" drive Armstrong dial torque meter from a suspension shop for about $200, calibrated as of last year too. It goes up...

Good to know! I'm still fairly new to anything diesel, so I'll give the Cat dealer a call tomorrow to see what they say (y)

1) I think Shell Rotella T would be okay for the truck. That's what my dad and I use in our trucks. 2) I don't have a multifuel, but I can't see why road diesel without additives would be a problem. Nice truck!

Check that off the "Missing from Google" list (y)

I did a search here and on Google and couldn't actually find pics of the combination anywhere.

Does anyone have any pictures of M246 tractor wreckers pulling trailers? What trailers would they have towed with the 5th wheel?

It sounds like an issue with either the switch itself or something on the parking brake lever pressing on the switch in a way that it works backwards, as in making contact when the lever is released. Other than checking the parking brake lever for something out of place that would be making the...

I agree, it does look foolproof. Obvious grounding eye is obvious, for one :p I've never messed with the parking brake light switch and I hope I don't have to for awhile! What happens when you press the brake pedal while the light is on? I'm wondering if something else is backwards with the...

Are you sure you got the right switch? I'm not sure if similar parking brake levers on other trucks, such as the HMMWV, have a switch that's backwards from the M44 family of vehicles. I'm assuming it's this part here which should be the same as those USAF deuces that were built with...

The parking brake light is supposed to be off when the parking brake is released. If it's on or flashing and the parking brake is released, it means there's a problem with the brake system, probably a leaky hydraulic circuit. In your case, maybe you have the wires reversed somewhere?

I can't see why not. Run flats go the same place in tires as beadlocks do, so I imagine they'd press the tire bead against the rim too. I'm not speaking from experience - never messed with run flat inserts before.