Search results

That sounds like a really nice idea. I will get a quote….. one thing to keep in mind…. I am cheap…it would really have to be inexpensive. Thanks for the input….. I will explore this option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, this is not an FMTV specific question, but since I spend most of my time here, I thought I would ask here. I have some 16ga steel that I want to install a glass window into it like an old flat glass windshield might have. The glass is aiming up at 35 degrees. It will be hit with driving...

I started wiggling the pins and after a while they started moving. I think they were painted in place. with the spring fully compressed, I don’t get very much space to move the cable around the end. the intent must be to snake the cable past it because the end is way fat. has anyone tried...

Thanks Chucky….. you probably just saved me a ton of money. Any pictures or videos on the details of your design? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, that pin (80) is bent on my truck on both forward and rear ends of the winch. I think they pulled the cable back until the end hit the pins. Ok, so just compress the pins to free them up. Since mine were bent, I wanted to know what to do before I start bending and prying on things...

No, the winch. When I roll then cable end all the way to the winch drum, I cannot get the end loose to flip over to the other side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He probably is using a battery balancer/equalizer to provide the 12 volts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do you get the pins out to reverse the direction of the winch? Mine are bent and I am not sure how they are supposed to work. Any videos out there? @Ronmar @Plasa Thanks in advance! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure you use a hard wood. The thread above is a good explanation. I have also heard that the wood is a sacrificial material and is replaced as needed….. but I think oak lasts a good long while. It also quiets things down. Not going to repeat what the other thread says. Good luck...

Ok, just closing the loop. Maybe this will help others. Day after I posted last, I added the fuel additive. I let the tank sit since then. I probably was a little heavy on the dose since my tank was not full and my gauge is not working…. So I guessed add rounded up. I did nothing else…...

I do plan to have 2 long handle shovels and maybe a short one (just in case), a bow saw and a chain saw, and some sort of hatchet/axe/log splitter (to be determined) for splitting wood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone have any experience with the max forestry tools? Good, bad? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks neat, but I find it hard to believe they would do much if you were in deep snow or mud. Also if you hit the brake, they might end up behind the tire doing nothing. An advantage to real mining style chains is you can use them in mud. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am not sure. When I flip the cab again, I will have to look. It would be right where the air enters the block, right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So my grey tank is inside my insulated floor. The metal skin is about an inch above the muffler screws. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, before I start, I did not read the TM on cold starts yet or the ether system….. but your post brought up a question. My 3126 has an ether switch on the dash. You make it sound like the electronics control the ether. So, how does the ether switch play into the automated electronic controls...

In my case, the sound deadening is less important than the heat shield. I don’t want the paint getting cooked off the steel or the xps foam on the inside of the steel off gassing or melting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am planning a water tank above my muffler. I thought about adhering DEI hood liner to the underside of the pan that holds the tank. Dynamat 11905 Hoodliner 32" x 54" x 3/4" Thick Self-Adhesive Sound Deadener...

I was considering putting a heat trace wire where the wipers park. You can buy kits for semi trucks. Would that need to be under the tint ? I assume so, but I am not sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, that was what I was thinking too. I probably will do less tint on the front as I think the law requires readings taken after application, so the glass adds to the tint number. I am not sure about where you are from. I also wanted to try it myself as I hate paying people to do anything...